Has anyone had any experience with the Kennard dual flush rear outlet with 7 inch rough in or similar toilets that have a wall discharge. I am putting a powder room in a loft. Directly below the toilet are ceiling beams from the ground floor room so floor discharge is not an option. I can tie into the main waste line with an 6 inch waste pipe with a 10' drop to two elbows at ground level. The first elbow to come out of the wall and the second to go into the main waste pipe. Any advice or knowledge of the euro rear outlet toilets appreciated. Likely will use the toilet for liquids, not solids.
Kennard rear outlet dual flush
- Thread starter WGW
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http://www.signaturehardware.com/media/pdf/25401-spec.pdf
For those that haven't seen it. It connects at the wall with a pipe 7" off the floor.
A standard floor mount rear outlet connects at 4-1/4" off the floor.
The toilet waste line needs to be vented.
The Caroma floor mount, back outlet roughs at 4"
For those that haven't seen it. It connects at the wall with a pipe 7" off the floor.
A standard floor mount rear outlet connects at 4-1/4" off the floor.
The toilet waste line needs to be vented.
The Caroma floor mount, back outlet roughs at 4"
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Russell Oppenheimer
New Member
I just did a bathroom remodel, moved lots of plumbing around, and used this exact toilet, from this same supplier, to allow putting waste drain in wall, to avoid going through joists which would have been problematic.
The unit is nice to look at, well made. I don't like how it bolts to floor (bolts are in back, not along the side), its difficult to get it tight enough not to move around, without fear of over-tightening and cracking it. You also need extra long lag bolts. the stuff they give you uses cheap plastic expansion anchors, and the bolts aren't really long enough anyway. Also the plastic bucket caps have almost no hope of staying in place. The indent where the lag bolts go isn't deep enough, so the caps can't get a good purchase on their mating washers.
But the worst thing is, its a Euro design (no water in the bowl), and it turns out the wife hates it. I mean HATES it. HATE!!!!!!!!! There are skid marks. There is smell. So, now what to do? My choices are redo all the plumbing to retro a US style 4" rough-in rear outlet (which would involve gutting the kitchen ceiling below, and gutting the newly finished bathroom wall where the toilet goes), redo the plumbing for a floor mount, and get an engineer to stamp a joist re-enforcement strategy (which also involves lots of wall & ceiling gutting), or get a divorce and sell the house. I wish I was completely joking on that last one. Its turned into a nightmare.
When I bought the thing, I thought the 'Euro' in 'European Dual Flush Toilet' referred to its dual flush capability. I was naive, and had no idea this earth contained toilets that used just as much water to flush, but that started off with almost no water in the bowl. Commercial US toilets are rear outlet, and they have water in the bowl. I didn't know what 'Euro' really meant! I've pooped in Europe before. I don't recall this being a thing.
I have been searching high and low for a better solution. But it seems toilets with water in the bowl are either bottom outlet, or rear-outlet with 4" high rough-in.
So, I think you will be fine with this toilet if you are OK with the Euro style, virtually waterless bowl. Otherwise, going back is not an option.
The unit is nice to look at, well made. I don't like how it bolts to floor (bolts are in back, not along the side), its difficult to get it tight enough not to move around, without fear of over-tightening and cracking it. You also need extra long lag bolts. the stuff they give you uses cheap plastic expansion anchors, and the bolts aren't really long enough anyway. Also the plastic bucket caps have almost no hope of staying in place. The indent where the lag bolts go isn't deep enough, so the caps can't get a good purchase on their mating washers.
But the worst thing is, its a Euro design (no water in the bowl), and it turns out the wife hates it. I mean HATES it. HATE!!!!!!!!! There are skid marks. There is smell. So, now what to do? My choices are redo all the plumbing to retro a US style 4" rough-in rear outlet (which would involve gutting the kitchen ceiling below, and gutting the newly finished bathroom wall where the toilet goes), redo the plumbing for a floor mount, and get an engineer to stamp a joist re-enforcement strategy (which also involves lots of wall & ceiling gutting), or get a divorce and sell the house. I wish I was completely joking on that last one. Its turned into a nightmare.
When I bought the thing, I thought the 'Euro' in 'European Dual Flush Toilet' referred to its dual flush capability. I was naive, and had no idea this earth contained toilets that used just as much water to flush, but that started off with almost no water in the bowl. Commercial US toilets are rear outlet, and they have water in the bowl. I didn't know what 'Euro' really meant! I've pooped in Europe before. I don't recall this being a thing.
I have been searching high and low for a better solution. But it seems toilets with water in the bowl are either bottom outlet, or rear-outlet with 4" high rough-in.
So, I think you will be fine with this toilet if you are OK with the Euro style, virtually waterless bowl. Otherwise, going back is not an option.
Last edited:
Russell Oppenheimer
New Member
Oh, and it uses this funky 'slip-fit' coupling. No wax ring. No flange. Its a PVC coupling that looks kinda like a 3"-to-4" adapter, and on the 4" side, there is this rubber gasket. The male rear outlet on the toilet just slides into this coupling, and the rubber makes up the difference between the 3" male ceramic on the toilet, and the 4" or so PVC. It gives a little bit of wiggle room on the 7" rough-in. So that if the final finished tile height is a little off from what you planned during plumbing, you'll be OK.
But...it just seems weird. I mean, won't 'stuff' accumulate in the trough between the rubber and where the 4" goes down to 3"? How long will the rubber last? Once the rubber goes, how to repair? The PVC coupling is cemented to the PVC waste pipe, so no way to easily replace the coupling.
But...it just seems weird. I mean, won't 'stuff' accumulate in the trough between the rubber and where the 4" goes down to 3"? How long will the rubber last? Once the rubber goes, how to repair? The PVC coupling is cemented to the PVC waste pipe, so no way to easily replace the coupling.
Asktom
Member
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