Interesting Well Pump, Motor and/or PumpTec issue, what do the experts say???

[Marissa Johnson]

Correct.

That would imply that the path between the pressure switch and the pressure tank is somewhat blocked. If you post a photo of the pressure switch and input to the tank, that might lead to a suggestion.

Correct.

That would imply that the path between the pressure switch and the pressure tank is somewhat blocked. If you post a photo of the pressure switch and input to the tank, that might lead to a suggestion.

Just fyi, I bypassed the switch and just hooked up the pump power wires to the plug in wires and turned the pump on and the pump still did the surging thing. I dont know if that helps anything. Also when watching the pressure switch while the pump comes on for a second, the switch doesnt un connect from the contacts when the pump shuts off, it just stays laying on the contacts...let me get a picture real fast.

 

[Marissa Johnson]

I can send a video of whats its doing when its turned on. Will that help?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Just fyi, I bypassed the switch and just hooked up the pump power wires to the plug in wires and turned the pump on and the pump still did the surging thing.

I don't know what would cause that, but the pictures will be useful to somebody who would.

 

[Craigpump]

I'd look for a blockage at the tank.

 

[Marissa Johnson]

Blockage as in something blocking the water pipes into the tank?

 

[Craigpump]

Craig-- if ever there were a textbook pump situation that needs a cooling shroud this is it....low yield well...low flow pump....obvious signs water is coming in 180' above the pump...pump sitting right at bottom. It should be obvious if they looked at old motor....would be rainbow color. I see a lot around here....not sure why pump guts won't spend $2 and 5 minutes and put sleeve on.
I like your theory too though (a little better than my theory actually). He has water level device in place....that would provide good info.
I would have changed both pump and motor too.....my distributors all say <2hp stuff so cheap they warrant as a unit.

I agree that shrouds are a good thing, they promote cooling, help to keep heavier sediment out of the pump & they put more money in our pockets. Win/win for everyone.

Up here the water is 52 degrees, it would take a tremendous amount of energy and really long run time to get the motor, water and surrounding rock hot enough to damage the pump. I think if the motor was getting that hot, the pump would also get hot enough to create steam and distort the pipe enough so that it would drop off.

 

[Craigpump]

Blockage as in something blocking the water pipes into the tank?

Yes. I've seen tank T's and the throat into the tank plugged with both iron and calcium.

 

[Valveman]

I can send a video of whats its doing when its turned on. Will that help?

Disconnect that compression coupling on the discharge of the pump and see if it surges when the water is just shooting straight out.

 

[Valveman]

how could a brand new motor go in 4 days after working fine the prior days?

Going to need to check the stick up height of the motor shaft to see what is going on. 4 days of power washing is about right to wear down a thrust bearing if the motor isn't getting cooling flow. And you should also see rainbow colors like VA says. If cooling flow is the problem it needs a flow inducer. I have seen lots of motors, (thrust bearings) get hot and the pump is still putting out nice cool water and looks perfectly fine. Without any flow past the motor you can boil the water around the thrust bearing while pumping 50 degree water up top.

 

[VAWellDriller]

I agree that shrouds are a good thing, they promote cooling, help to keep heavier sediment out of the pump & they put more money in our pockets. Win/win for everyone.

Up here the water is 52 degrees, it would take a tremendous amount of energy and really long run time to get the motor, water and surrounding rock hot enough to damage the pump. I think if the motor was getting that hot, the pump would also get hot enough to create steam and distort the pipe enough so that it would drop off.

Actually they put less money in my pocket, because the system will last longer and I won't be back. Our water isn't much different than yours; temp upper 50's. I was a real skeptic until I saw it first hand, and was able to repeat the issue over and over. When the conditions are just right, a motor can overheat and stop the internal overloads while still pumping lots of water. I've seen it happen in about 20 minutes and been able to repeat it in different wells. Now, I know there are lots of pumps working just fine in top feeding setups; motor life may be only slightly diminished, but I'm sure you've seen some rainbow colored motors. You'll never see a rainbowed motor when a sleeve is on. Sub motors are really not made to handle any heat; they assume good cooling flow, require good cooling flow. I'm pretty sure Franklin only rates standard 4" motors for something like 86 degrees. For me, since it literally costs less than $10 and less than 5 minutes, I always install a sleeve when I know its a top feeder. I don't ask the customer, tell the customer, or itemize that $10 fee. I just do it because I know it's the manufacturer recommended and right way to install.

 

[Marissa Johnson]

I figured it out guys! I couldnt get past the past that the whole pump and switch were shaking so bad when it was surging, it sounded like an electrical problem, not just short cycling. So i switched the plug in to a dfferent outlet and boom! Pumps on and running great. Thank you so much for all the help, ill know for next time if something goes wrong!

 

[Craigpump]

We don't really see that many motors with a rainbow, but I'm going to have to look through my junk pile and see how many we have. How did you repeat your findings? I would venture to say that most wells I've drilled & worked on up here produce from different fractures.

I would like to be onsight when that pump comes back out, if that was here in CT I'd go pull it just to see what's going on.

As for the sleeve, I make mine with a 4" abs seal and a piece of 4"sch 40 and charge a lot more than $10.00 for it.

 

[Reach4]

I figured it out guys! I couldnt get past the past that the whole pump and switch were shaking so bad when it was surging, it sounded like an electrical problem, not just short cycling. So i switched the plug in to a dfferent outlet and boom! Pumps on and running great. Thank you so much for all the help, ill know for next time if something goes wrong!

That is very surprising. I wonder what is weird with that problem outlet.

 

[Valveman]

I figured it out guys! I couldnt get past the past that the whole pump and switch were shaking so bad when it was surging, it sounded like an electrical problem, not just short cycling. So i switched the plug in to a dfferent outlet and boom! Pumps on and running great. Thank you so much for all the help, ill know for next time if something goes wrong!

Glad you figured it out. Sounds like Craigpump was right, except the problem was not in the wire but in the plug. Same difference. I would never connect a pump with a plug. I always hard wire a pump as plugs can get lose, arc out, and drop a leg as it did here.

 

[VAWellDriller]

We don't really see that many motors with a rainbow, but I'm going to have to look through my junk pile and see how many we have. How did you repeat your findings? I would venture to say that most wells I've drilled & worked on up here produce from different fractures.

I would like to be onsight when that pump comes back out, if that was here in CT I'd go pull it just to see what's going on.

As for the sleeve, I make mine with a 4" abs seal and a piece of 4"sch 40 and charge a lot more than $10.00 for it.

I had suspicions from repeatedly pulling pumps just like this one...at the absolute bottom of a very low producing hole. I saw, believed, and could duplicate, after a few projects zone testing wells with packers.