Let me toss in a few thoughts...
Jamie's instructions are excellent. Go ahead and pull out your reading glasses and also go over the ones Toto sends with the toilet. They are nicely-illustrated and really they are just another way of saying the same thing but maybe something sinks in that's helpful. IGNORE the part where they tell you to stick the wax ring to the bottom of the toilet. The way plumbers do it is better, which is to put the wax on the flange. When you put the bowl down on the wax, its base will be above the floor (this shows you have wax touching the bottom of the bowl, which is good). Don't "rock" it into place. Just "smush" it straight down onto the wax. Wax doesn't spring back, so best to eliminate the possibility of rocking gaps with a continuous smush.
While you're at HD picking up the plastic toilet shims, get a tube of Polyseamseal, which you want to use instead of regular silicone caulk to seal it to the floor; in most jurisdications, you seal all the way around. You can smooth the nice bead of polyseamseal with the caulk-smoothing tool for a professional look.
If you're at Lowe's, you might think of picking up this wax-free gasket from Korky.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_586597-868-6000PK_0__?productId=50150240&Ntt=korky&pl=1¤tURL=?Ntt=korky&facetInfo= The benefit for a first-time installer is that if you want to pull the toilet back up to change or adjust something (i.e. adjust bolts to make it more parallel to the wall or something), you don't need to scrape off the wax and start over with new rings. Using the wax-free seal means that you don't need to worry so much about creating a wax gap from rocking on install. At HD, the sani-seal wax-free seal is popular.
When you take out your old toilet, it may be easier to carry out if you take off the tank and carry it out in two pieces. Using your plunger on the bowl is one good way to get it nice and empty to you don't drip toilet water across the house while carrying it out.
You can get closet bolts that break off at different heights so you don't have to hacksaw them so the caps fit. Or, instead of a hacksaw, a dremel tool is another good way to cut them. TIP: Cut the closet bolts and make sure the caps fit BEFORE you seal around the base, and then wipe the whole area with a moist paper towel; that way, you don't get metal shavings or Dremel dust in the caulk, which will happen if you cut the bolts right after you have caulked.
Good luck and let us know how it goes. If you find something funky or weird looking when you pull up the old toilet, let us know and we'll help.
