Install Compression or Sharbite Ball Valves for Tub/Shower fixtures

[Greg0010]

My house is about 2o years old and has no-name-ish contractor-grade (Rocaille) single-lever faucets in the two tubs/showers. They both leak a little (drips from spout). This house is new to me, and while I have experience working with really old tub faucets with separate knobs for hot/cold, I have zero experience with this kind of faucet.

I have no idea what I'll find in there when I pull it apart, if I'll find some innards and just have to replace a cartridge of some type, or if I'm going to be buying a new faucet...or more. An extended period of time when I have the water shut off to the whole house while I figure one of these out isn't going to work.

So, I'm thinking I'll install ball valve shut-offs in the crawl space for the faucets' supply lines. Then, I can work on one and not be trying to rush through anything.

My questions are 1) is this kosher or is this an oddball thing to do (that might look bad when/if re-selling)? and 2) while the 1/2" copper below is accessible, it is a little tight. I'm thinking of using either a sharkbite ball valves or a compression ball valves. I haven't soldered since a high school shop class; it is all a little too close to the floor joists for my confidence with a blowtorch. For a longer term situation, would it be better to go with a compression fitting or a sharkbite?

 

[Terry]

In a crawlspace you may find it easier to use a Sharkbite style ball valve. It's not hidden and you have access to it.
Soldering in old homes with the water off is always interesting. I always have water with me in a spray bottle.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

The wall that holds the valve may have a linen closet on the other side. An access panel is often put in that closet wall wall.

If you have, or will have such a panel, you could put the stop valves behind that panel.

 

[Jadnashua]

You cannot successfully solder a joint if there is any water in the pipe, and removing it can be tedious. The slope and an outlet for it along with letting air into the pipe can be difficult to impossible to control. That leaves something like a Sharkbite style fitting where you only need to worry about cutting the pipe square no scratches or deformation of the pipe, and removing any burrs on the pipe end prior to inserting the new fitting.

 

[Cjlambert]

Don’t use sharkbite. I have had them leak straight out of the package. And I have had them start leaking hours, and days after installation. They rely on a rubber washer/gasket, and they will inevitably start leaking, given enough time (which is likely what has happened to your shower valve cartridge). Their only real use is for temporary connections/caps.

Compression is far more reliable if you are not confident in your soldering ability.

But have you taken the trim plate off the valve? There might be partition stops on the valve body you can close with a slot head screwdriver, and then freely pull the cartridge.

 

[Greg0010]

Hmm...I'll try taking that plate off and see what is there. Mostly, I don't want to start anything I can't finish, and I've never worked with one of these single-lever faucets before. And I'm not inspired that it is basically some no-name contractor-grade stuff from 20 years ago. But taking the cover off should be simple enough.

 

[Greg0010]

I thought I would follow-up with some resolution. I investigated the tub faucet more. It looks like it is a second, crappier, contractor-ish brand made by Delta in the 90s. Upside is that your regular Delta parts should fit it, including pretty easily available repair kits. So, I'm going to get those and give my hand at it just shutting the house water off and without installing new cut-off valves in the crawl space.

If it goes poorly. I'll be jetting over to home depot to buy two sharkbite valves, but I am hopeful it'll be fine now that I've identified the correct parts for the faucet...and those parts are available. Thanks all.