Help me fix this mess: 2 bowl sink drain w/ disposal

[CountryBoy19]

The primary cause of this problem appears to be a relatively high and partially obstructed drain stub in the cabinet (it's only 3/4" below the disposal outlet and right behind the disposal). This all develops periodical leaks, I tighten it up and it eventually leaks again. I think it's happening due to back pressure/ vibration from the disposal running plus hot water sitting in all the drains below the outlet (acting like 1 big trap) causing thermal cycles at the joints. Note that it's only the joints sitting below the water level showing the signs of leaking/moving.

I can think of a couple ways to fix this but none are ideal and I'm looking for input.

This picture taken from a high angle. Note the drain stub behind the disposal and supply lines partially obstructing the route to the stub.

This picture taken from a lower angle. And I just noticed the red thing...NOT a sex toy...just a nipple from a bottle for a calf...pic below so you don't think I'm crazy...

 

[Jeff H Young]

swap dosposal to the shallow side and if nessesary ditch that deep strainer and use a regular one , and throw the slinky thing away those arent good . I put a 90 on the disposal that comes with it and tee bellow that 90 .

 

[Sponsor]

 

[CountryBoy19]

swap dosposal to the shallow side and if nessesary ditch that deep strainer and use a regular one , and throw the slinky thing away those arent good . I put a 90 on the disposal that comes with it and tee bellow that 90 .

I definitely don't plan to shut down input bc I really do want input, but moving the disposal to the shallow bowl isn't going to happen. My head will be on a pike outside if I did that...

I'm looking for more along the lines of "use a reverse trap and a doohickey fitting to get around the supply lines".

Edit, yes, I know the slinky thing isn't good, can't wait to get rid of that and all the other garbage plumbing in there. If there is enough room to turn down into a trap between the drain and the supply valves could a center drain Tee going straight back instead of down be ok? Or a reverse trap somehow incorporated in there? How does the reverse trap thing work? Is there a thread that covers that?

What about hard plumbing a Wye to the drain stub so I can individually trap each one? I can turn the disposal 180 and keep that trap over out of the way. But do they make wye fittings that are intended to go on a drain stub? Or would that be a cut and glue job with regular sch 40 fittings? I think there is enough room I can likely cut the stub off and glue a different fitting on there 1 time before I have to pull the cabinet (nightmare bc 12 ft long quartz countertop on the same side as the cooktop) and open the wall up. Plumbing bot easily accessible from behind due to built-in cabinets. It would require pulling trim, 2 doors (frames included) and dismantling cabinets to get them out of the closet and open the wall from behind.

Ultimately I want this done right no matter what I have to do, except switch disposal to other bowl. My wife isn't going to be ok with that. Happy wife happy life so I'm not even going to mention that...

 

[Reach4]

I definitely don't plan to shut down input bc I really do want input, but moving the disposal to the shallow bowl isn't going to happen. My head will be on a pike outside if I did that...

I'm looking for more along the lines of "use a reverse trap and a doohickey fitting to get around the supply lines".

Comment withdrawn.

 

[Fitter30]

Center of the drain going through the wall and center of the disposal discharge pipe from base of cabinet?

 

[Jeff H Young]

ok that ok well what you need to do is coming from the wall dont change elevation just keep it with slope.

 

[CountryBoy19]

Center of the drain going through the wall and center of the disposal discharge pipe from base of cabinet?

Center of drain through wall: 12" above the cabinet
Center of disposal discharge: 12-7/8"

 

[Jeff H Young]

Center of drain through wall: 12" above the cabinet
Center of disposal discharge: 12-7/8"

and from the far sink to the wall over 2 foot so you lose a 1/2inch there. maybe a deep trap or a sch 4o glue on trap using a regular 90 insteap of a trap 90 . another possibility a shallow disposal with a higher drain, or bust hole in wall lower trap arm

 

[Fitter30]

Have a basement or crawl space might be possible to come up from the bottom reattach below. Either way the trap has to lowered since moving the disposal is out of the question.

 

[Reach4]

Maybe something like the first photo in https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/baffle-tee-for-disposer.95220/

The trap could be reversable if more space is needed between the baffle tee and the inlet to the trap.

There will also be a 45 at the trap adapter. One way to get one that is not female on both ends is to cut a double offset. https://www.acehardware.com/departm...VEEd_AB3IxgkFEAQYAyABEgJ4d_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[CountryBoy19]

Maybe something like the first photo in https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/baffle-tee-for-disposer.95220/

The trap could be reversable if more space is needed between the baffle tee and the inlet to the trap.

There will also be a 45 at the trap adapter. One way to get one that is not female on both ends is to cut a double offset. https://www.acehardware.com/departm...VEEd_AB3IxgkFEAQYAyABEgJ4d_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I think I can make that work! The reverse trap trick (new knowledge to me once I started digging into this), and cutting the offset to get a 45 were to breadcrumbs I needed to wrap my head around this.