HELP! Hi and Dry in Arizona!!

[MaryAnne Gibson]

Long story, but well prob. noticed suddenly 2 months ago. Tank went dry. Noticed tank float severed. Reconnected. No water pumped. Had water hauled in. Booster working. Self diagnostics not working, called 4 help. Person comes undoes jumpers in breaker box.( without permission) Then jet pump nolonger worked. Person left us hanging 4days.(hand haul water to house to flush toilets and do dishes... Ugggh!) Somehow when he came back our was booster fixed.(???) No explanation. Left hi and dry. Called out electrician. Pump windings to deep well pump ohms out o.k. Tells us orig. wiring done cock eyed. We ore working to re wire but dont really know what is up with pump. Call out 2nd guy, 2 guys end up coming. Live rural, tank is down hill, pump is up hill. They undo more wiring without our knowledge & we had no power to pump. They end up telling us wire shorts found down in well and pump dying. How in the 4311 can they figure that with no electric???!!! I think twice scammed!!!! Because of no knowledge of electric!!!! We are now broke from 150$ weekly water hauling. What can we do????

 

[Reach4]

If you have wire going down the well, that would be for a submersible pump. That is controlled by your float switch. I think you are saying it is not working. It may be that the power to the submersible pump is coming over different wires. So killing the power to the booster pump would probably not kill the power to the submersible pump.

What are these "self diagnostics"? Are they for the submersible pump that is down the well, or are they for the above ground booster? Maybe post the make and model of the box that has the "diagnostics"

The booster pump is the jet pump above water. I think you are saying that it was working until the pump workers came out and messed that up.

If you want to do some diagnosis with help, post photos with covers off. Provide make and model of everything that you can see: boxes, pump, wire ends. Get a clamp-on ammeter. If that does not have a voltmeter function (with probes) also, get a multimeter with probes also.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

Pump guys like that give us all a bad reputation. Sorry! You really need a GOOD pump guy if you can find one. But like Reach said, send some pictures and model numbers of stuff you have. If the well is completely dry we cannot help with that, but we can at least help get your booster pump working again.

 

[MaryAnne Gibson]

Self diagnostics were ohming the well head for good windings, checking and repacing capacitor to pump saver/ well box. We have an old ohm meter my husband was using, but we are not too electicly inclined. Right now, since people totall messed with wiring, we are lost! Worse than before. I will take photos of every thing. These are of tank and some? square D box involved with elec to float. Float wires outside of tank. Ket pump to push water to house.

 

[MaryAnne Gibson]

Continuation this is the breaker box by water tank. Where elec goes to float and well.

 

[MaryAnne Gibson]

Continuation this is to pump with pump saver that goes to submersable pump, 400+ down. I'll have to wait to send ohm readings when the oldman gets up. I'm so confused bu this wiring meds that the old well drillet did 20 yrs ago!

 

[Valveman]

I don't see the pressure tank in any of those pictures?

 

[MaryAnne Gibson]

Oops! Here you go!

 

[MaryAnne Gibson]

Pump guys like that give us all a bad reputation. Sorry! You really need a GOOD pump guy if you can find one. But like Reach said, send some pictures and model numbers of stuff you have. If the well is completely dry we cannot help with that, but we can at least help get your booster pump working again.

Yea, thats the problem, who to trust who wont do things without our knowledge and not rip us off! We are now out of savings due to others not being forthright. Water is 150$ a week! X2 months!!! Booster is currently working, it's the submersible we cant get working.

 

[Reach4]

I see some other things were being posted while I was working on this. I will go ahead and post in case it turns out to be useful.

So let's address the submersible pump problem.

It looks like Y in the marked-up photo snip could the flex cable going into the tank somewhere. Pressure switch, a pump, what? Same question on the smaller black cord going into the big tank. What else can you tell us about this photo?

So does the well casing come up in the big tank where the wires in the yellow go? If not, show us the well casing?

Is U and V in the background part of your water system, or is it your trash and recycling bin?


I see you have a breaker off. Is that for the submersible pump?

 

[Reach4]

I don't see the pressure tank in any of those pictures?

The submersible feeds the big tank under control of the float switch.

The jet booster pump system, which needs the pressure tank, seems to be currently working, if I understand the follow-ups correctly.

 

[Bgard]

the control with the 10 terminals looks like a Warrick probe type level control, there would be three probes at different levels in the tank the bottom probe is common the next one up is pump start and the next is pump stop, it uses the conductivity of the water to open and close the circuits.

 

[Reach4]

Cool. so that would be part of the tank fill system with the submersible.

Maryanne, when you put the volt meter across L1 and L2 on the pump control box, do you get approximately 220 volts? Don't worry about whether it is 210 or 250, but is it in that range?

If no voltage initially, have a helper turn the turned-off breaker on for a second. Did the voltage come on while the breaker was on?

 

[Bgard]

its possible that the warrick level control failed at some point and the black cord going over the top of the tank is a float type control.

 

[Valveman]

Glad the booster is working. The best I can tell from following the wires, the level sensor in the tank was disconnected and the pump is wired directly to the breaker. Does the Pumpsaver thing light up or do anything when you turn on the breaker to the well pump?

 

[Bgard]

I don't know if the wire color stays constant but the l1and l2 in the pump control are red and black and both of the red and black pairs are disconnected from the breakers, follow the red and black wires from the pump control and see if they go somewhere else or if they go to the pictured breaker box, if they do connect them back to the open breaker.

 

[Bgard]

Once again not sure of color consistency but it looks like the two breaker with the yellow wires go to the level control box,one may be for the pump and the other for the level control. The routing of the wires need to be determine where they go so we might have a better chance to help you get it working

 

[Bgard]

Is that the well head right there at the base of the big storage tank wrapped in plastic??