Hard Faucet Risers, why so difficult?

[DIYorBust]

When I went to replace a faucet yesterday, I saw it had chrome copper faucet risers, and I liked the idea of not having to worry about hose bursts. Normally I like to change the braided ones every 5 years, but with many in different locations, it could save some trouble to avoid this.

Since I had some extra time on my hands, I decided to try replacing them with new chrome copper risers. But when I went to install, it felt like the laws of physics had changed. I've used many compression fittings before. But these kept leaking at both the angle stop and at the ball on top.

Here's what I did:
-cut to exact size with tube cutter
-Bend tube to line up ball perfectly straight with faucet connector.
-Tighten coupling nut to seal joint
-Connect ferrule side to angle stop
-tighten compression nut

So now I turned on the water, and observed small leaks at both ends. I tightened a little more expecting to seal the leaks, but it merely slowed them even as I tightened beyond my usual comfort point for a small compression joint. Thinking I got it wrong, I took the whole thing apart and remade it with another new riser. Same thing happened.

Finally I just tightened both nuts like crazy. I'm sure the tube is crushed at the ferrule end, and the coupling nut at the ball end is almost maxed out on the threads. This stopped the leak, and it's been dry for 24 hours, but it didn't feel right, and wasn't quick at all. Online tips suggested applying dope to the compression surfaces. Is that the way it's done? Are you supposed to sand off the chrome at the ends or something? What's the deal?

Thanks!

DIYorBust

 

[Reach4]

I think the worry about over-compressing the tubing is overblown. With short wrenches, often compounded with awkward access, I don't think that is a real concern. I used pipe dope and more torque on copper tubing after having a leak. The old tubing, I had suspected I had crushed, was not deformed. I am not a pro.

Lubrication such as lubricating oil, pipe dope, or plumbing grease on the threads makes your wrench torque more effective.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Kreemoweet]

I don't know where you picked up the notion that hard, metal-on-metal supply lines would be
more reliable or easier to install. My own experience has been the exact opposite. Flexible
supply lines are wildly popular for a reason. I've never known one, or heard of one, "bursting".
I've seen plenty of the flexible, corrugated metal ones develop sidewall leaks, and of course the
metal ferrule and ball joints should not even be found in the same sentence with the word "reliable".
If metal lines must be used, you should look into using rubber cone sealing washers with them.

 

[DIYorBust]

Thanks guys. I don't know if the tube is crushed, but it definitely was on the one I pulled out when I started over.

Now I get that rubber hoses don't often burst, but if they do they will leak a lot if water. In a place like a seasonal rental that can be unoccupied for long periods, a slow drip from the metal riser seems like a better failure mode. I've never had a rubber hose fail, but the amount of damage possible is so large that I'm willing to change them every five years. There are stories of big damage if you google around.

The cone washer seemed like an interesting choice. How do you specify it, and do you just place it on the end of a copper tube without a ball end? What about the compression end, still a metal sleeve?

Thanks!

 

[LLigetfa]

Maybe the fault lies with your angle stops? I've never had a problem getting a good seal on metal or PVC. I have some braided steel over rubber ones in place here since '99. I am on well water with a max working pressure of 60 PSI but periodically pressure test to 80 PSI.

 

[DIYorBust]

It could be. The angle stops are threaded and I didn't have one of those on hand
Since they were closing fine, I didn't think it was worth the extra work to replace them. They are about 20 year old multi turn valves. But I suspect the chrome coating may be part of the issue as I've never had this experience with bare copper and compression fittings. I see unchromed risers are made, but they aren't generally stocked. Probably the main reason these get used is for appearance, so I can see why the bare copper ones aren't common, but I'm curious if they seal better.

 

[Terry]

When installing solid risers, which is all I had to install in the 70's and 80's, the top 1/2" nut to the faucet gets tightened first. When that is fully tight, then you can drop down to the angle stop and tighten the compression nut.

I have never used tape or dope on those lines.

Old twenty YO stops.........Okay, many some dope there.

 

[James Henry]

As Terry explained in so many words, if the acorn end of the supply line isn't perfectly seated in the faucet it will leak unless you over-tighten it and you can crush the end with the ferrule on it if you over-tighten that. the trick is to snug the nut up then turn the water on and tighten it until it stops leaking.

 

[DIYorBust]

• Thanks Terry and James. I was aware of the alignment issue, and I tried to line them up carefully, but it was my first time doing it. I am getting the sense it would have been worth it to change the angle stops. I did use the let it leak then tighten up method, but it kept leaking way past the torque I expected it to. Little leaks that might take 30 minutes to see water. Finally near the end of the threads it sealed. I might have another quarter to half a turn left on the threads, but that's it.