Faucet connectors for open base vanities

[Atomic1]

I am looking at a double sink vanity for the master bathroom. Of course, my wife must have a vanity with open space beneath the sinks (and a set of drawers in between). Kinda like this

There are four supply angle stops that are located just off the floor and they will be just below the central drawers.

Does anyone have any elegant ideas to make the faucet connections? I'm thinking it would involve the use of solid risers within the open areas beneath the sinks, into a 90-degree brass elbow below the sink base, and to a braided flex connector to connect to the angle stops?

 

[Reach4]

If the solid risers will be visible, you may be able to go all of the way up to the faucet. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?resources/non-flex-copper-supply-riser.23/

You may be able to jog from the valves and then up behind the drawers.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Atomic1]

Do those solid risers fare well when making 90-degree angles? I'm not sure I'd be able to get below the vanity and make the turn into the angle stop.

 

[Reach4]

Maybe not a good idea. I think 30 inch is the longest I have seen, so that would be a limitation. They can be bent with a bender, however.

The supply lines don't even need to be visible, do they?

How about piping behind the drawers to to new stop valves up high, where they would not be seen unless you squatted? Or move the stop valves to behind the top drawer, where you remove the drawer to operate. I am not a plumber.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Behind the drawers come up with one hot and cold line each, then use a double 3/8 stop valve. If the faucets do not have their own built in lines then use braided lines. The tricky part will be the p-trap to the waste. If you use above the counter bowl type sink you probably OK hiding it behind the fascia board.

 

[Atomic1]

There's not really enough clearance behind the drawers for another set of stops. I do have a waste connection centered at each sink that would come through the rear of the vanity. Will probably use chrome traps since they'll be partially exposed.

I can get a 30" brushed nickel riser https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCr...cet-Riser-in-Satin-Nickel-1-30A-NSP/205214823

Do you see an issue of connecting this riser straight to the faucet and coming straight down, through the vanity base, and into a compression fitting of a 90-deg brass elbow (3/8" comp to 1/2 MIP). Then a ~9" braided connector to the angle stop?

I don't necessarily need the risers to be visible, but placing them this way would have fewer elbows. I just want to make sure i'm not running afoul by mixing and matching these.

I do read that the bullnose connections to the faucet are unreliable. I'd probably cut off the "bullnose" and use a rubber conical washer like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCr...-Washer-for-Copper-Faucet-Riser-01W/205214653
If anyone has any comments about bullnose connections, let me know.

Yes my wife is a pain.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Need to to know your faucet models. Those with built in lines cannot be replaced but can be cut back and use compression fittings. If you use a 4” three hole faucet then you have 1/2” connection and you’ll be able to use the risers. If nothing leaks you can do anything you want.

 

[Atomic1]

I'll be going with a multi hole moen, so they will have the 1/2" threaded male inlets.

I have found that just because it doesn't immediately leak, doesn't mean its reliable.

 

[OLD TIMER]

Cone washers are obsolete and require a "beading tool" to install them correctly. Stay away from them.

 

[OLD TIMER]

Before you set the vanity. cut slots in the wall behind it and stick the supply lines coming up from the floor into the wall
and feed them back out up near the faucet connections are and through the back of the cabinet. Just a thought.

 

[Atomic1]

I like that idea. The back face of this vanity isn't fully flush with the wall either, so notching wouldn't have to be too deep. I could probably ditch the solid lines altogether and make that work with two braided connectors connected by a brass elbow at the upper back face of the vanity so that it could poke through near the faucet inlets.

Think I might be able to solder together a 1/2" copper line with the angles? I guess I'd have to use brass compression fittings for the 1/2" MIP and 3/8 MIP threads to accept the braided lines.

 

[Atomic1]

hmm, i also just found rigid 3/8" copper type L pipe which may fit better. Do people use this for water service applications? I've never seen it used.

 

[OLD TIMER]

It's for air conditioning lines.

 

[Atomic1]

Even the rigid 3/8" copper? I'm not talking about the coiled soft copper stuff.

 

[OLD TIMER]

Fraid so. plumbers never use 3/8" copper. You do whatever works for you.

 

[OLD TIMER]

I take that back. sometimes on a certain appliance we'll use 3/8" copper. I meant we never use it in the plumbing system.