Draining - What am I doing wrong?

[Melissa2007B]

OK, I've been hearing "drain the water heater" for years now. I'm not an idiot, but am having a problem with this. That white valve thingie is almost impossible to turn. I hooked up a hose to it, and couldn't even get it to open. And SINCE then, it's been dripping just a tiny bit - like one drip every 5 seconds.

What am I doing wrong, guys?

 

[Dj2]

Actually you're dong nothing wrong. The reason that the WH is not draining or draining very slowly is the amount of mineral junk inside the tank around the drain, plugging the way.
One way is to break some of the crystals with a long screwdriver through the white drain faucet. If that works, be ready to funnel the water away, so you don't have a flood.
Draining works fine, If you do it annually from the beginning. It doen't work fine if you try to drain a 15 y.o WH for the first time.

However, let me ask you this: Why do even bother with such an old WH? I would guess that this unit is at least 15 y.o.
It won't even meet code today, not without a sealed burning chamber.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Cacher_Chick]

Those drain valves are junk and can be replaced with a brass nipple and a full-port brass 1/4 turn valve.

I never drain a heater, I always leave the water on and flush out the debris.

 

[Melissa2007B]

Actually you're dong nothing wrong. The reason that the WH is not draining or draining very slowly is the amount of mineral junk inside the tank around the drain, plugging the way.
One way is to break some of the crystals with a long screwdriver through the white drain faucet. If that works, be ready to funnel the water away, so you don't have a flood.
Draining works fine, If you do it annually from the beginning. It doen't work fine if you try to drain a 15 y.o WH for the first time.

However, let me ask you this: Why do even bother with such an old WH? I would guess that this unit is at least 15 y.o.
It won't even meet code today, not without a sealed burning chamber.

No it's about 6 years old. Modular home - don't know if that makes it look different.

 

[Melissa2007B]

Those drain valves are junk and can be replaced with a brass nipple and a full-port brass 1/4 turn valve.

How much does that cost to do, and how hard is it?

I never drain a heater, I always leave the water on and flush out the debris.

You mean, just like I have been, by seeing black clouds in the tub water every so often?

I thought it was supposed to be a self draining water heater anyway. Or was it self circulating? I forget.

But I've gotta stop that drip anyway, it's not good for the piers and foundation, I understand. Or our mold allergies.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

These are harder to find, but this valve is 3/4 NPT x 3/4 garden hose thread. It will screw into the side of the tank, replacing the plastic valve.

 

[Reach4]

The attached pictures shows one of those common plastic water heater drain valves unscrewed from the WH. The other shows that same valve separated as it does when you keep unscrewing. If replacing, you first remove the big round part, and then the part screwed into the WH. The thread for the drain valve for a home WH in the US is generally 3/4 NPT thread.

Irwin Vise-Grip large jaw Pliers (12 inch) is a good tool, if you need a stronger grip, for opening, closing, or unscrewing the big roundish part. If you keep unscrewing, because you want to replace the valve, the valve separates . Then you grab the 1-5/16 hex part. You could probably use the same tool, but you would switch to a different tool if you have a large tool selection.

I think most would prefer a large Channel Locks/ groove joint / water pump pliers. https://www.channellock.com/Themes/Channellock/Images/product/category/420-straight-jaw.png

 

[MACPLUMB]

if you want to change out that valve the way to remove is to turn counter clockwise all the way open then give a little pull
out then start turning clockwise valve will unscrew completely leaving a 3/4" npt then you can screw in the replacement, if you have the replacement valve handy in right hand unscrew
the old one with the water off you can screw in new one only losing about a cup or two of water,
have new valve open when you start to install but after you get it started close valve then complete tightening valve

 

[Dj2]

These are harder to find, but this valve is 3/4 NPT x 3/4 garden hose thread. It will screw into the side of the tank, replacing the plastic valve.

E-Z Flow sells brass WH drain valve for around $5. Available at any plumbing supply store.

Home Depot has this one.

 

[Melissa2007B]

Ok, I'm not a plumber and the above kinda confused me. I need a new one that is right hand unscrew?

I don't know if I can do this myself, without trashing the water heater, or bringing it down for DAYS ( no showers, here in Denver, as the water is icy! ). Maybe I need a plumber for this? But they're SO expensive. I bet this would cost us $300 with a plumber. Or $600?

 

[Reach4]

I need a new one that is right hand unscrew?

The deal is that you don't have to change out the existing valve. A pliers as discussed above would make turning it easier if you don't have the hand strength to operate the valve by hand. Those plastic valves are not the best. They are pretty restrictive, and changing out to a better valve is better. The suggested possible valves would offer much less restriction to water (and possible debris) flow.

Replacing a valve is not as hard as putting in a new sanitary tee. If you decide to try it on your own, enlist a friend as a helper, even if you are the muscle. It often helps to have another set of eyes and be able to talk it through with somebody.

Most people never drain or flush their water heater. I do, but if it is hard for you, don't feel guilty.

I was thinking... some jar openers might help get a better grip for closing your existing valve from dripping.

 

[Melissa2007B]

Thanks guys. I have slip joint pliers but think I'll wait until tomorrow, so in case an emergency occurs, it won't be January 1st.

If I decide to change it, I'll refer back to this. And thank you all.

Happy New Year!

PS: Speaking of jar openers, my late parents gave me one of these about 30 years ago, and it's still great, though worn: https://www.etsy.com/listing/583122...XejIEOIQOm6N6ip3fkzro5J1_B76JwnUaAhsMEALw_wcB

 

[Jadnashua]

If you choose to replace the valve, a couple of points:
- you might want to turn the thing off before you take your shower...that will dilute the water in the tank, and it won't be scalding hot when you finish.
- you will need either some pipe dope and/or some PTFE tape to put on the threads of the new valve to keep it from leaking when you screw it in. You can use both the tape (put it on first) and some pipe dope, but done properly, either one by itself should work.
- if you shut the inlet water off, as noted, just like putting your finger over the end of a straw, you shouldn't get a lot of water out before you can get the new valve installed. You don't want it to be super hot, which is why I listed the first point.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

You would be best to just leave it alone .... it looks to be an older unit and you are asking for troubles...
sometimes those old plastic valves dont come out of the heater in a peaceable manner and break off in the threads
Then you got some fun on your hands.....especially if the heater still has water in it..

You should wait until the weather is warmer and not get yourself in a big jam
. I suggest you just go buy yourself a hose cap and a washer and plug off that
drip the easy way and leave it alone

 

[Melissa2007B]

The deal is that you don't have to change out the existing valve. A pliers as discussed above would make turning it easier if you don't have the hand strength to operate the valve by hand. Those plastic valves are not the best. They are pretty restrictive, and changing out to a better valve is better. The suggested possible valves would offer much less restriction to water (and possible debris) flow.

Replacing a valve is not as hard as putting in a new sanitary tee. If you decide to try it on your own, enlist a friend as a helper, even if you are the muscle. It often helps to have another set of eyes and be able to talk it through with somebody.

Most people never drain or flush their water heater. I do, but if it is hard for you, don't feel guilty.
I was thinking... some jar openers might help get a better grip for closing your existing valve from dripping.

My main concern is screwing things up royally. Like I don't know if the existing valve is left handed, until I do it, so I don't know whether to get a left handed brass one. It could cause serious problems if I mess up with that - like not having water until I get the right one.

 

[MACPLUMB]

CHECK YOUR MESSAGE BIN

 

[Melissa2007B]

Someone from this forum took it upon themselves to just call me at work, this past week, without my permission. So I just removed any potential sources of contact details from my sig and profile. Not cool, people, to call a female member at work, with no advanced permission or notice.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

They must not have much of a life if they actually called you about this issue

.

 

[Melissa2007B]

It's just not appropriate to call someone from a forum without their permission, and especially a female member - it comes across as way overboard.

 

[Reach4]

Who would think a process server would be so sensitive.

Why did you post your phone number to begin with?

Are you implying that you would have welcomed a call from a female?

And it wasn't me.