Alan Waterman
Member
My house was built in 1998 on a slab. Water is M copper under slab and all original. It's possible the lengths under the slab could be L but everything that I can get to for fixtures has always been M.
Solenoid appliances are clothes washer, dish washer, and ice maker. I also have a shower sauna but it's only use maybe once a year.
How important is it to install water hammer arrestors? I don't have noisy solenoids or banging pipes but I'm not sure that means much.
My ice maker spigot sprung a pin hole leak a few years ago which promptly shut off the water to my house so no damage but it was a bit surprising. I sweated on a replacement. I've had no other leaks and my pipes hold pressure for at least 30 minutes down to the PSI before I terminate the test. I only test after I've shut the hot water off, several showers to use up the hot water, and then flushing the hot water heater until the water is the same temp as the cold water so that decreasing water temp doesn't lower the pressure.
Couple other slightly related facts. My water is neutral ph and 1 grain of hardness. I also have a phosphate feeder in an inline filter coming into the house.
I used to have occasional water hammer from my well pump shutting off but about 15 years ago installed a Franklin VFD controller for constant pressure which has a slow start and stop which completely cured the banging of the pipe going into the house.
So how important are water hammer arrestors and why don't appliances have them built in or do some in fact have them already.
Solenoid appliances are clothes washer, dish washer, and ice maker. I also have a shower sauna but it's only use maybe once a year.
How important is it to install water hammer arrestors? I don't have noisy solenoids or banging pipes but I'm not sure that means much.
My ice maker spigot sprung a pin hole leak a few years ago which promptly shut off the water to my house so no damage but it was a bit surprising. I sweated on a replacement. I've had no other leaks and my pipes hold pressure for at least 30 minutes down to the PSI before I terminate the test. I only test after I've shut the hot water off, several showers to use up the hot water, and then flushing the hot water heater until the water is the same temp as the cold water so that decreasing water temp doesn't lower the pressure.
Couple other slightly related facts. My water is neutral ph and 1 grain of hardness. I also have a phosphate feeder in an inline filter coming into the house.
I used to have occasional water hammer from my well pump shutting off but about 15 years ago installed a Franklin VFD controller for constant pressure which has a slow start and stop which completely cured the banging of the pipe going into the house.
So how important are water hammer arrestors and why don't appliances have them built in or do some in fact have them already.