From the videos I am seeing on youtube the bushing goes inside of the larger piper and the smaller pipe goes inside the bushing, both glued which I like more than using a rubber gasket It also seem to save room compared with the reducing coupler that is longerWho told you that?
I expect that is made to go into a 2 inch hub, and accept a 1.5 inch pipe. You have the equivalent of a 2 inch pipe coming down from the drain, right? So you would need a 2 inch coupling (two hubs)plus the bushing
Then a short length of pipe into the trap.
Do I need to install a reducer from 2 1/2" to 1 1/2" for this shower drain ?
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Wait... I was probably wrong. If that bushing goes right into the shower drain, that may be exactly what you need. Sorry. I had been thinking that there was a 2 inch pipe you had to interface with, but I now realize I probably misunderstood.
I had been wrongly thinking that have the equivalent of a 2 inch pipe coming down from the drain. Instead I now think you have a hub that will accept a 2 inch pipe.
I had been wrongly thinking that have the equivalent of a 2 inch pipe coming down from the drain. Instead I now think you have a hub that will accept a 2 inch pipe.
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being able to glue that to directly to the shower drain would be fantastic but I don't think is it possible so I need a small piece of 2" pipe that will make the transition to the shower drain. In that piece I would have to put the bushing and then continue with 1.5" pipe toward the trap
wwhitney
In the Trades
1) You could use that if the straight portion before the stop is long enough--it would need to stick in to the drain body at least as much as you'd stick a 2" pipe into the drain body. But the stop may keep it from inserting far enough, I'm not sure how much pipe you need to insert into the drain body. If it's more that the usual depth of a 2" hub (which is only 3/4"), then the stop would be in the way. That's why I earlier suggested finding a bushing without a stop.
2) If you did use an ABS bushing, your make up from inside to out would be 1-1/2" pipe - ABS bushing - rubber gasket - drain body. Which would work, but it's better/simpler to eliminate the ABS bushing and use a thicker rubber gasket made for 1-1/2" pipe.
Cheers, Wayne
wwhitney
In the Trades
If that's what you want, rather than a no-caulk shower drain, then yo need a solvent weld shower drain, e.g.:
https://www.oatey.com/products/oatey-101-ps-series-solvent-weld-shower-drain-294819260
Unless that has an unusually deep hub, your solvent weld bushing with flange would work with it.
Cheers, Wayne
A stop could be rasped down I think.
I was not aware of the differences between solvent and no caulk drains
From what I am reading it is safer to go with a no caulk (compressed gasket) drain as you can adjust and replace it easier
With solvent welding types you have one chance to get it right
I will need some flexibility in that area as I am not sure if the template I used for positioning the vertical axis of the shower drain is precise and I am positive that the shower base will not be perfectly square with the framing so for now the plan is to glue just the wye that connects the shower drain to the drain and then put the shower base in place later and make adjustments again. I need to order the shower drain and the above gasket or the reducing bushing.
I am going to use a brass shower drain since it seems it is less prone to cracking
Wouldn't that be more prone to leaking and ageing ? I guess this is installed from above
I can try both solutions and see which one works better considering the little room I have there
wwhitney
In the Trades
True, but that gets to my earlier point of not being sure what length of pipe the rubber gasket in a no-caulk shower drain is meant to seal against, and whether the bushing is that long.
Cheers, Wayne
OK I went to the store and I bought the bushing and the coupler together with the shower drain
https://www.lowes.ca/product/shower-drains/2-in-dia-brass-shower-drain-w-ss-strainer-253154
After trying to dry test everything it turns out that I am like an 1" short to go with either a coupling OR or with a bushing
The bushing does not make any difference because it requires a coupling piece in order to get into the 2" pipe
Here is a picture
These being said I think I have two options:
-go with the gasket that can make the transition from 2" to 1-1/2" OR raise the crown with around 1-1 1/4" by inserting a piece of 1.5" ABS between the trap and the crown, like below. Is that allowed ?
https://www.lowes.ca/product/shower-drains/2-in-dia-brass-shower-drain-w-ss-strainer-253154
After trying to dry test everything it turns out that I am like an 1" short to go with either a coupling OR or with a bushing
The bushing does not make any difference because it requires a coupling piece in order to get into the 2" pipe
Here is a picture
These being said I think I have two options:
-go with the gasket that can make the transition from 2" to 1-1/2" OR raise the crown with around 1-1 1/4" by inserting a piece of 1.5" ABS between the trap and the crown, like below. Is that allowed ?
wwhitney
In the Trades
Now that you have the drain body on hand and can read the directions and look and it closely, try this:
- Stick a piece of 2" pipe (with a nice square end cut) into the bottom of the drain body just the right amount. (Not sure what that is, but you should be able to figure it out.)
- Mark the pipe as it comes out the bottom of the drain body. Measure the distance from the end of the pipe. Call it A
- Measure the distance from the narrow end of the bushing to the start of the flange. Call it B.
Is B at least as great as A, or really close (e.g. B = 3/4", and A = 7/8")? If so, just stick the bushing into the drain body, no 2" pipe, no 2" coupling. Glue the 1-1/2" pipe into the bushing (well, in the opposite order).
Is A a lot greater than B? Then I suggest you just order the other brand of 1-1/2" rubber gasket for a no caulk drain, and see if it and 1-1/2" pipe will fit in the drain body as snugly as the current 2" gasket and a piece of 2" pipe fit into it.
As for increasing the trap seal depth, you need to look up in your plumbing code the allowable trap seal depth range, and then look at your proposed modified p-trap and see if it is within the allowable range. But personally this is my least favorite option.
Cheers, Wayne
- Stick a piece of 2" pipe (with a nice square end cut) into the bottom of the drain body just the right amount. (Not sure what that is, but you should be able to figure it out.)
- Mark the pipe as it comes out the bottom of the drain body. Measure the distance from the end of the pipe. Call it A
- Measure the distance from the narrow end of the bushing to the start of the flange. Call it B.
Is B at least as great as A, or really close (e.g. B = 3/4", and A = 7/8")? If so, just stick the bushing into the drain body, no 2" pipe, no 2" coupling. Glue the 1-1/2" pipe into the bushing (well, in the opposite order).
Is A a lot greater than B? Then I suggest you just order the other brand of 1-1/2" rubber gasket for a no caulk drain, and see if it and 1-1/2" pipe will fit in the drain body as snugly as the current 2" gasket and a piece of 2" pipe fit into it.
As for increasing the trap seal depth, you need to look up in your plumbing code the allowable trap seal depth range, and then look at your proposed modified p-trap and see if it is within the allowable range. But personally this is my least favorite option.
Cheers, Wayne
wwhitney
In the Trades
First I suggest putting the bushing into the 2" rubber gasket from the drain body. If it doesn't insert far enough into the gasket (e.g. the gasket is 1-1/4" tall, and the height of the bushing excluding the flange is 3/4" tall), I wouldn't suggest just cutting off the flange, as the gasket would not be sealing for the full design length like it would against a 2" pipe.
Cheers, Wayne
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wwhitney
In the Trades
I don't follow and don't understand the import of the picture. (I also left out a not in my post, now fixed, perhaps that clarifies things).
Cheers, Wayne
Cheers, Wayne
The trap depth seems to be regulated in regards to the minimum but not the the maximum
http://www.buildingcode.online/920.html
Do you guys know what the International Plumbing Code says in this respect ?
I am looking for something that complies to with the laws of Physics even if it does not follow the code line by line
The bushing is short and it is impossible to use as indicated above, it is 3/4" tall
It is this one
https://www.lowes.ca/product/abs-dw...n-dia-abs-flush-bushing-spigot-fitting-275971
http://www.buildingcode.online/920.html
Do you guys know what the International Plumbing Code says in this respect ?
I am looking for something that complies to with the laws of Physics even if it does not follow the code line by line
The bushing is short and it is impossible to use as indicated above, it is 3/4" tall
It is this one
https://www.lowes.ca/product/abs-dw...n-dia-abs-flush-bushing-spigot-fitting-275971
wwhitney
In the Trades
IPC is 2" to 4" trap seal depth.
How tall is the rubber gasket that came with the shower drain?
Cheers, Wayne
P.S. Some of my earlier comments may be off, as I interpreted your picture to show a bushing with flange or stop on it. But the one you linked to has no flange or stop, and looking again I see that is what the picture shows.
How tall is the rubber gasket that came with the shower drain?
Cheers, Wayne
P.S. Some of my earlier comments may be off, as I interpreted your picture to show a bushing with flange or stop on it. But the one you linked to has no flange or stop, and looking again I see that is what the picture shows.
If I raise the crown 2-3" I will be ok
The rubber gasket that came with the drain is 1" tall.
wwhitney
In the Trades
2" - 3" is too much for the IPC, since the standard trap has a seal of at least 2", I think more like 2-1/2".
If the gasket were 3/4" tall, I'd say just go ahead and glue the flush bushing on, and make sure the bushing fully lines up with the gasket on the inside of the drain body. At 1" tall that seems unwise. I guess you could conceivably ream out the inside stop on a flush bushing and glue two bushings onto the end of the 1-1/2" pipe, up against each other. Seems a little wonky.
I suggest getting the 1-1/2" pipe gasket and trying it.
Cheers, Wayne
If the gasket were 3/4" tall, I'd say just go ahead and glue the flush bushing on, and make sure the bushing fully lines up with the gasket on the inside of the drain body. At 1" tall that seems unwise. I guess you could conceivably ream out the inside stop on a flush bushing and glue two bushings onto the end of the 1-1/2" pipe, up against each other. Seems a little wonky.
I suggest getting the 1-1/2" pipe gasket and trying it.
Cheers, Wayne
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