DIY bathroom sink galvanized --> PVC

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by Dan, Sep 5, 2020.

  1. Dan

    Dan Member

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2020
    Location:
    Nebraska
    asking for feed back on my plumbing: i replaced a section of galvanized pipe that drains the bathroom sink. here are some photos (please ignore the water, was struggling a bit with leaks).

    [​IMG]

    https://i.imgur.com/moyMEwX.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/ocRUy2H.jpg

    i replaced only this section for now and will replace much more of the plumbing in in the basement when i have more time. i used a fernco no-hub coupling to connect the 1.5-inch pvc to the galvanized.

    i also cut out some of the copper water pipes in this order
    exising 1.5-inch copper pipe >>
    1.5-inch sharkbite connector >>
    brass pex barb male copper sweat adapter >>
    copper drop ear (both ends sweat) >>
    1.5-inch copper L >>
    1.5-inch compression fit, 3/8-inch shut off valve

    a few questions that i have:

    - the bottom of the horizontal pipe coming out of the sanitary tee is 18" off the current floor, is that up to code (on-center, it would be 19" off the current floor, i will be adding tile on top of it so the 'finished' floor would be ~18.25" on-center?).
    - is there code that dictates the height of the water pipes coming out horizontally? (i couldn't find anything on this)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 6, 2020
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    The rough in height on a sink or lav is determined by counter height and has a wide range. You look fine for that.
    Reducing from 1.5" to 1.25" is not normally done. I've never tried that before in fact.

    It may have been easier to go from copper to PEX on the water supplies there and using PEX stops.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2020
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  4. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    By using a glued trap, you don't have flexibility on where the tailpiece of the sink will be. Gluing on a trap adapter at the sanitary tee, you could use slip joint trap, and have had a lot of flexibility.

    If you have trouble matching a sink to your trap, you may be able to cut the pipe coming out of the sanitary tee, and glue on a hub trap adapter.
     
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  5. Dan

    Dan Member

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    do you mean going from PVC 1.5-inch to the galvanized 1.25 'downward' for the sink drain? if this is not up to code then i can replace the entire galvanized pipe going 'down' but it would be very very challenging given how the pipes are crossing and laid out in the basement.

    i agree. part of this was to also practice soldering (i plan on leaving much of that exposed in the vanity so i can access it.

    i couldn't find drop ears pex-to-pex at the stores so to use all pex i would have to use a plain 90 degree elbow and secure with a pex j-hook to secure?
     
  6. Dan

    Dan Member

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    i think you're referring to the dry fit 1.5" pvc coming out of the sanitary tee? the horizontal part coming out of the sanitary tee (1.5" pvc + pvc p-tradp) is temporary to block any smells.

    i'm assuming i will use 2 1.5" pvc trap adapters: (1) for the sink drain coming down and (2) at the sanitary tee. is this what you're thinking the final set up should be?
     
  7. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    Most cast iron fittings are 2" hubs that may have 1.25" or 1.5" leaded into them. If you could upsize that that now, it could solve latter problems with draining.
     
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  8. Dan

    Dan Member

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    hmmm, i'm not following, sorry for my slowness. i'm trying to learn and be very explicit. the galvanized steel pipe seems to be 1.25-inch nominal (outer diameter of 1.66-inches; fernco no-hub 3001-150 the galvanized).

    are you suggesting i take out the entire drain section of the galvanized pipe with pvc? underneath is all galvanized of the same diameter. so i would have to replace all of it to remove any 1.5"pvc to galvanized 'restriction'.

    is the way i have done it not up-to-code (as ugly as it looks)? i am wanting to finish up this bathroom (our only one) and then work on the rest of the plumbing in the basement as time allows. but if the photos i showed are not up to code, then i do need to change this since inspectors will be checking out the work.
     
  9. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    Do you have pictures of the exposed plumbing in the basement?
     
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  10. plumber69

    plumber69 In the Trades

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    What you did here is fine
     
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  11. Dan

    Dan Member

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    Terry, here are a few photos of directly underneath the bathroom sink.

    you are looking at the water pipes and the galvanized drain that ties into a larger galvanized 'main' drain. i haven't ever measured the diameter of this main drain l. but it is larger than the sink drain, sink vent, and shower vent.

    IMG_20200906_155100.jpg

    IMG_20200906_155045.jpg

    IMG_20200906_155033.jpg
     
  12. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    Where does the steel go into the cast?
     
  13. Dan

    Dan Member

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    i dont have any photos of the connection to the stack in the basement but here is a photo of the main stack in the background of this photo of taken in the basement

    IMG_20200808_152337_1.jpg
     
  14. Dan

    Dan Member

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    here's another photo of the main stack from inside the bathroom:

    https://i.imgur.com/5soRu1d.jpg
     
  15. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    You either have a 1.5" threaded connection at the cast iron stack, or it's a 2" hub with a 1.5" pipe leaded in.
    If it's the hub, then a 2" fits there with a donut. Pretty simple fix if it is.
     
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  16. Dan

    Dan Member

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    ok, got it. is it ok as it is as far as code goes? i'll replace all of it eventually but don't want to tackle it right now.
     
  17. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    I'm sorry but going from 1.5" to 1.25" is not code. I see you trying to do the right thing though and asking questions here. If you could run 1.5" down to the basement at least you could finish later without opening the wall again. Just a thought.

    My project today was adding an electrical outlet to my deck so we can plug in a laptop charger, have some lights and music while out there.
    Next week I want to add a hose bib and a short length of hose so I can wash off the deck if needed. Hey, may put out a fire too. :)
     
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  18. Dan

    Dan Member

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    cutting out the galvanized in the basement is going to be very difficult b/c of the angles and stuff in the way. i guess i should have just left the galvanized in.

    to bring this work up to code, what you're saying is that the minimum amount of effort to bring this up to code is to bring the 1.5" pvc down to the galvanized 'long sweep' junction here:

    https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/img_20200906_155033-jpg.65886/

    or are you suggesting that the only way to meet code is to bring 1.5-inch pvc all the way to the cast iron stack?

    that would mean the 1.5-inch pvc long sweep tee is connecting to galvanized still. in the case where i only replace a small section there will always be 1.5-inch pvc connection to the galvanized unless i replace all of the galvanized. i am trying to learn but also want to do the minimum job necessary for code.
     
  19. Dan

    Dan Member

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    update here:

    https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/pvc-90-degree-long-sweep-turned-at-an-angle.89738/
     
  20. Dan

    Dan Member

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