Did I buy the wrong well pump?

[Charrie]

Hi all,
Is a Grundfos 10S05-9 too big for my replacement pump?

My son called me today and told me that one of the last independent hardware stores around here was going out of business. They had a brand new, unopened box, 1/2hp pump left and said that he would take $300 for it. I know that my current is a 1/2hp from the amp draw but that is all I know about it except who ever installed it did a poor job. I think that the home previous owner did it last.
Anyway after my son reading the specs on the new pump and being excited about the price, I told him to go a head and buy it.
Now that I am starting to do some more in-depth reading, I am not sure if this will work or not. So I am here where the pros are to ask!

Here are some pics of the tags and pump.

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Also if it is the correct pump for my application, he threw in a 1" no lead brass check valve. Does anyone know if that pump has a built in check valve?
Maybe another question. I think my drop pipe is 3/4 ID. I am not sure how you measure the black poly pipe but poly pipe is clamped directly to a 3/4 fitting. would the existing drop pipe work with that new pump?

Thanks
Charrie

 

[Reach4]

Not too much pump. That generates less pressure than a 1/2HP 7 gpm pump.

I expect that pump has a 1-1/4 connection, so adapt. Feeding 3/4 inch is OK.

I am pretty sure that pump has a check valve, but an additional check valve right above the pump is OK.

Expect 3/4 SIDR pipe to be over 1 inch OD.

Valveman has written about topping up the water in the pump before installing, if the pump has been in storage for a good while.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Charrie]

Thanks for the reply Reach4. I have learned a good bit in the past 2 hours about this.. Seems I remember a post a year or two ago where I mentioned buying a pump to keep on hand and the water issue was brought up. Now I am thinking about that and maybe this was not such a good deal! I was thinking there was a seal that would have to be replaced but I have learned that is not the case.

I spoke with someone from RC Worst and he said that a diaphragm in the pump could be dried out or that the bearing grease could be dried up. He did say that there is the chance that it would still work but probably not as long as it should.

So my thoughts are now.
What if the motor diaphragm or bearings are bad?
The pump head should still be in new condition and usable?
To prevent being a total loss of $300, I could buy a new motor?

I will defiantly try to find the post from Valveman about topping off the water.

I remember reading not to put a check valve up at the top of the well if there was one in the pump. I can see one at the pump not being an issue.
Yes the pump does have 1-1/4. The check valve is 1"so I would have to use an adapter there and another on top of the check valve from 1" to 3/4".

I wish I knew exactly how the well is because they have wire and some pipe left at half price. The pipe and wire in storage slhouldn't go bad.

Again , Thanks
Charrie

PS just found the post where Valveman talks about problems storing pumps.

Should I get a spare pump now?

Newbie here. I have a 3-wire, 3/4-HP, 230-volt submersible pump that is dated 2002. It is mounted horizontally in about 2 feet of springwater. Although it's in a springhouse, various damage and PVC mishaps have occurred over the years, resulting in the intake of silty water and debris such as...

terrylove.com

 

[Reach4]

I found these: https://www.terrylove.com/forums/in...-pump-for-residential-home.91099/#post-655483

Did my well pump motor fail?

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/best-well-pump-for-residential-home.91099/#post-655483 is one instance. I read the part about storing the pump in water or filling it with water from the bottom when it's time to use it. Should I be storing my pump itself in water until I drop it...

www.terrylove.com

A Franklin motor with a Grundfos pump end seems like a great combination, but adding that distilled water before install is going to be something that you would want to do.

 

[Charrie]

After searching around a bit, I did find this post from Valveman.
"You can store a submersible pump/motor in a container full of water. Just keep the container topped off. Or you can top off it off with distilled water when you get ready to use it. Most can be filled fairly easily from the bottom. Place the pump/motor upside down. Take out the screws and remove the end cap and rubber diaphragm. Fill with water and replace the diaphragm and end cap."

Best well pump for residential home

I need the experts recommendation for my home water well. There is a 10 gpm 230v submersible pump in service for 5 years no name just Pentair motor. My well is 6 inch 325 feet deep static level 5 feet water started at 260 feet produces 4GPM Distance to house is 25 feet I have CSV then BB10...

terrylove.com

I still haven't figured out how the motor cools itself with water. They said that the motor is hermetically sealed and from all I know about motors, you wouldn't want water inside the motor windings. Maybe well pump motors are made differently.

If I take the cap off and it is dry in there, I wonder if there is any way to replace the rubber diaphragm? Seems like I saw someone here had posted a diagram from Franklin with the motor parts list and diagram.

Well since we are talking about pumps here and I haven't been able to contribute much to this forum, here is a diagram the Grundfos distributor sent me of the 10S05-9 pump. Perhaps someone might know where to put it or someone might see it and find it.

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I will see if I can find the link to the motor schematic.

Thanks
Charrie

 

[Reach4]

I think the water lubricates the motor bearings. https://www.franklinwater.com/produ...dable-2-pole-motor-sku-collection/2656125021/

I think the windings are potted.

 

[Charrie]

Is there anything in the pump head that could be bad after 33 years?
What do you think the chances of the motor being good and lasting?

curious because I found Franklin motor dated 14th week of 2021 new in the box for $300.

I have a creek on my property with a couple of deep spots and rock bottom. Right now the water flow is fast enough so the pump would not suck it dry. perhaps I could let it run in the creek a little and see how it does and sounds?

 

[Bannerman]

I still haven't figured out how the motor cools itself with water.

The motor is cooled by the well water flowing over the exterior shell of the motor.

When installed vertically, the motor is located at the bottom of the pump unit, below the pump's water inlet opening. When water enters the well casing above the pump, flowing downward into the water inlet, there maybe insufficient flow across the motor to provide sufficient heat removal.

To ensure there will always be sufficient flow across the motor's shell to draw away heat while the pump is operating, a flow inducer sleeve/shroud is recommended.

A flow inducer sleeve with an ID slightly larger than the pump's OD is to be clamped to the pump housing above the water inlet, which is then sealed, often using electrical tape to prevent water from entering above the inlet. Because the sleeve's open end is located a short distance below the motor, all water drawn into the pump inlet, will be forced to enter the sleeve below the motor, ensuring sufficient flow across the motor.

In anticipation of some amount of dry storage time, I expect lubrication was installed at the time of assembly. Since you are not planning to utilize the pump for some time, storing it in a water bath seems prudent, but that wont provide testing to verify it is functioning properly. The manufacturer's warranty period could conceivably expire before you actually get around to using it.

 

[Valveman]

The 10S05-9 is one of my favorite pumps. It has a great built in check valve, so you can use the extra one for a paperweight. The 1/2HP Franklin motor is also my favorite. Just turn it upside down, remove the bottom end cap, remove the rubber diaphragm, fill with water, and replace diaphragm and end cap.

The 10S05-9 will work with a 40/60 switch as long as the water is not deeper than about 90'. All other info you have been given about the flow inducer and stuff is great. But all pumps are larger than needed, which is why I always recommend a Cycle Stop Valve.

 

[Charrie]

Thanks for the replies.

Bannerman, Thanks for the explanation and information on the flow inducer. I will defiantly be adding one when I replace my pump. Looks like they are easy enough to make. I also saw a video about testing a pump. Simple enough to make a test tank and it would serve as the storage tank.

Valveman, Thank you. I read a post where you said that the Grundfos pumps will outlast several motors. In a reply to one of my questions a while back, you also said that the pumps by themselves can be stored long term without issue. In another thread it mentions that the Franklin motor bearings are not ball bearings but graphite? One of the guys I spoke with yesterday said that the grease may be dried up which would indicate ball bearings? Are they a graphite or brass type of bushing? If not ball bearings then I shouldn't have to worry about dried up grease should I?
What are your thoughts about the bottom diaphragm and top lip seal that goes around the motor shaft? I looked at a Franklin parts list but they don't give apart number. I did find a $100 kit for the top half but that is a bit much to pay for a lip seal! Of course there was much more in the kit but I don't need those parts, same with the bottom end.

When I remove the bottom cap and diaphragm, will I be able to see the motor shaft? If so, would I be able to try turning the shaft? The Grundfas guy suggested I try to turn the motor/pump too.

BTW my pressure is 30/50 right now and I am fine with that. The 50 psi would allow the pump to be a little deeper if needed? The pump testing video above discusses pressure and depth a bit and how it applies to that pump.

Thanks
Charrie

BTW here is a video showing if one knew what they were doing, perhaps could rewind the motors in your back yard shop!

 

[Valveman]

Thanks for the replies.

Bannerman, Thanks for the explanation and information on the flow inducer. I will defiantly be adding one when I replace my pump. Looks like they are easy enough to make. I also saw a video about testing a pump. Simple enough to make a test tank and it would serve as the storage tank.

Valveman, Thank you. I read a post where you said that the Grundfos pumps will outlast several motors. In a reply to one of my questions a while back, you also said that the pumps by themselves can be stored long term without issue. In another thread it mentions that the Franklin motor bearings are not ball bearings but graphite? One of the guys I spoke with yesterday said that the grease may be dried up which would indicate ball bearings? Are they a graphite or brass type of bushing? If not ball bearings then I shouldn't have to worry about dried up grease should I?
What are your thoughts about the bottom diaphragm and top lip seal that goes around the motor shaft? I looked at a Franklin parts list but they don't give apart number. I did find a $100 kit for the top half but that is a bit much to pay for a lip seal! Of course there was much more in the kit but I don't need those parts, same with the bottom end.

When I remove the bottom cap and diaphragm, will I be able to see the motor shaft? If so, would I be able to try turning the shaft? The Grundfas guy suggested I try to turn the motor/pump too.

BTW my pressure is 30/50 right now and I am fine with that. The 50 psi would allow the pump to be a little deeper if needed? The pump testing video above discusses pressure and depth a bit and how it applies to that pump.

View attachment 98141

Thanks
Charrie

BTW here is a video showing if one knew what they were doing, perhaps could rewind the motors in your back yard shop!

First clue they don't know what they are talking about is saying "bearing grease" in a submersible motor. Those are water lubricated Kingsbury type bearings, which is why you need to top off the water inside. The diaphragm and seal will last a long time, won't need replacing. Can't see the shaft from under the diaphragm. Just some holes to let the water pass. You could turn the shaft from the top end, but isn't needed like when storing a motor with ball bearings and grease.

Yes, using a 30/50 switch means that pump can lift from 20' deeper than with a 40/60 switch.

Can't rewind those motors anymore. They have a caned stator which is encased in epoxy to keep the water out. Heat causes the canned stator to swell then Bob's Your Uncle for the motor. Some of the larger motors have wet windings which use insulated wire to wind the stator, and they can be rewound.