CST744 or CST454

[Plumber'sSon]

I returned my CST744EL bowl with a crack.
I want to give Toto another try.
What should I go with under $300: CST744, CST454 or something else? (1.28)
And what those numerous letters stand for?

Thanks

 

[Terry]

Another try?

I'm seeing less then 1/2 of a percent returns from my suppliers.

I have sold thousands. It's just a matter of picking the features you like.

E = 1.28 GPF
S = 1.60 GPF
[ ] = Standard Height
F = 16-1/8" bowl height
L = 16-1/2" bowl height
G = CEFIONTECT
C = Double Cyclone Rinse

The 454 bowls are the Drake II series, taller bowl, Double Cyclone, CEFIONTECT. They're a nice upgrade over the standard 744 Drake.

CST454CEFG Drake II

CST744EL

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WJcandee]

I think your original choice of the CST744EL was just fine. Did you return both the bowl and tank? If you kept the tank, then I would just go with the C744EL bowl that you had originally. If not, and you want to step up to CEFIONTECT along with the Universal Height, then the Drake II is a nice choice.

I was actually, um, "interacting" with our CST744S original Drake today, and marveling at how reliable it has been and how well-made it is.

 

[Plumber'sSon]

Thanks guys!

Actually, I was very surprised the Toto's bowl had a crack. Probably, I have just fallen into those 0.5 %
If you do not mind I have few more questions:
1. Double Cyclone Rinse - is it more powerful?
2 CEFIONTECT - just keeps the bowl cleaner or helps the evacuation as well

Thanks

 

[WJcandee]

1. Rinse is a little better. Flush is equivalent. It's hard to surpass the flush power of the original Drake.

2. Cleaner, mostly. Reduces skid marks, resists rust/water stains and makes it easy to get everything off with just a quick brushing. You still have to clean the bowl from time to time with a little bowl cleaner and a soft bristle toilet brush. But you shouldn't need (or use) something like Comet.

 

[Wallijonn]

For under $300 you'll probably be looking at a Drake. 744S or 744E, 1.6gpf or 1.28gpf, it probably doesn't make too much difference. The height is the bigger issue, whether you want the regular height model, 14+5/8" or the ADA model, 16+1/2" (CST744SL or CST744EL).

CEFIONTECT usually costs about $100 extra... Size wise the shorter Drake looks shorter (height and length) and smaller (overall) than the ADA height Drake.

But, since it is probably going to be a one time deal, if you really like the Drake II, then by all means spend the extra dollars and get it.

Make sure that you look at the total height and width of the toilet in case you want it to match the height of your vanity cabinet. You wouldn't think that 3/8" difference in bowl height makes a difference, but it does. In a smaller bathroom the Drake II CCT at 15" wide (the Drake II is about 16+1/2" wide) will probably make the bathroom look roomier and probably make it easier to get in and out of the shower. But if you have plenty of room to either side of the toilet then the wider toilet tank of the Drake at 19+1/2" will probably make the bathroom look fuller.

One other thing to note is that the Drake will probably stick out about 2" from the wall (spec sheet says 1+1/4") versus the Drake II CCT that sticks out 5/8" (13/16" for the Drake II). So if your flange is at about 12+1/2" from the wall you will probably want to go with the Drake II, and if your flange is 11+1/2" from the wall then you would probably want to go with the Drake. The width of the bowl flange bolt opening will probably allow +/- 1/2" play, so on the Drake you can probably get as close as 3/4" or as far away as 1+3/4" from the wall on perfect 12" from the wall flanges. Set your distance from the wall, use a nut to hold the flange bolts in place, before you install the wax seal and set the toilet in place. Setting the distance from the wall is important if you have to "go around" the toilet to get into the shower. The closer it is to the wall the less you feel that you are going around the toilet to get into the shower.