Critique - Comments/Suggestions on Shower Valve

[Lordoftheflies]

So I removed a Riobel shower valve that kept leaking and causing some serious damage to the ceiling below. The client had four different plumbers try and "fix" it to no avail. After having repaired the sheetrock after the initial leak and repair, they wanted me to remove it and install another valve that looked similar to their existing shower head and bath controls.

I ended up using the Danze D500540BNT trim and the D112000BT valve. Seemed pretty sturdy and well made to me.....

I used Sharkbite fittings, 1/2" pex, some teflon tape and some megaloc.

Used a 5/8" drill bit to enlarge the hole in the tile/backerboard to fit the plastic guide for the new valve.

The sharkbites are super convenient for flushing out the vertical pieces of copper that I deburred.

Comments and suggestions welcome. I know some people probably don't like sharkbites and some probably don't like Danze. Keeping my fingers crossed on both.

Existing valve handle

Existing bath controls

Linen closet access to the shower valve and piping

Old valve

 

[Lordoftheflies]

More pics.

Plastic guide in place

Flushing the supply lines after cuttage.

Supporting the valve.

I cut the screws off after the pic.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

The beauty of using pex is that you can bend it into a curve and avoid fittings...each brand has its own minimum bend radius, but I think you could have avoided most of the fittings there. Now, it certainly might look neater done as if it were copper pipe, but behind a wall, who really cares?

 

[Lordoftheflies]

Understood. But I didn't want to cause a leak because the bend was too tight. One or two extra 90s was worth the peace of mind. Also putting an access panel there for future maintenance.

 

[hj]

quote; Also putting an access panel there for future maintenance.
WHAT "future maintenance"? The only reason for an access panel would be to change the valve again. I hope that is a brass cap on the bottom of the valve. It would have been much easier using copper.

 

[Lordoftheflies]

Yes that is brass. Why would it be easier to use copper? Flames, solder, and possible leaks. No leaks with the sharkbites. Easy to cut. No need to debur. No need to sand.

Future maintenance - in case the valve breaks, yes. Or if they want to change the valve.

 

[hj]

quote; Easy to cut. No need to debur. No need to sand.

You are equating "easy" with "good". That is one of the reasons why polybutylene, CPVC, and PEX became "standards". With copper your only fittings might have been 2 street 90s, two 45's and two couplings, along with the knowledge of where and how to use them.

 

[Lordoftheflies]

quote; Also putting an access panel there for future maintenance.
WHAT "future maintenance"? The only reason for an access panel would be to change the valve again. I hope that is a brass cap on the bottom of the valve. It would have been much easier using copper.

quote; Easy to cut. No need to debur. No need to sand.

You are equating "easy" with "good". That is one of the reasons why polybutylene, CPVC, and PEX became "standards". With copper your only fittings might have been 2 street 90s, two 45's and two couplings, along with the knowledge of where and how to use them.

Uh......that's funny. You're the one that said "It would have been much easier using copper." Perhaps you meant...."gooder".

It was plenty easy using the sharkbites and the pex. Seriously there is no argument which one was "easier". Pex. Hands down. No flux either.

 

[Standardairconditioner]

It was plenty easy using the sharkbites and the pex. Seriously there is no argument which one was "easier". Pex. Hands down. No flux either.

Your pex work will prolly last for the rest of your lifetime, just don't seal up the drywall, instead just fasten a nice piece of sanded plywood over it (sanded paints really nice with white primer). You'll be able to inspect it anything you may be paranoid.

The only issue I see is the non-stud scrapwood you used there. I think you wanted a thin piece because you were thinking of keeping the thickness of the drywall. That piece may break down the years from the daily tugging you will put on it. Look how the pine already split. See if you can replace that with stud. Use at least 3 #8's on each end insyead of the 2 that I see now. All of it will be covered by said plywood anyways.

 

[Lordoftheflies]

That's 3/4" piece of extra cabinet moulding I had from a kitchen job. It split because I didn't make the pilot hole big enough for the screws. I think it should be ok. The other holes were fine (went to a bigger pilot hole). I ordered a larger access panel to cover up the hole. Patched and painted the closet. Installing an Elfa shelf system for the client now.

 

[Standardairconditioner]

So basically you have a piece of low-density "cabinet moulding" used to support daily tension and stress on that shower valve for the next ten years.

So this was contract work for a client?

I hope the client doesn't see this thread. They would have grounds to ask for this to be re-done properly and professionally. This is POOR work of an amatuer. Even a good DIY would have taken the proper advice given here.

You asked for a critique. You got one.

 

[Lordoftheflies]

Uh....that piece is solid wood. Not some piece of crap mdf. I don't know what kind of fun you have with a shower valve but all you gotta do is turn this one, no tugging involved. It's not going anywhere. Limited to 3/4 depth because of the size of the valve...otherwise it would protrude past the sheetrock. It's not meant to support a person's full weight.

Thanks for your advice.