Concrete under toilet?

[Reach4]

Another possiblity is a Jones Stephens or Plumbest C40440 outside compression flange. You would use a saw to clear the area. This expects the pipe to be 4 inches down, I think , but I don't know the precise dimensions needed. There are also versions for 2 inches down and 3 inches down, but those are not going deep enough. Is the 4 enough? That would be good too.

This would not work if the pipe was right up against a joist.

https://secure.lockeplumbing.com/detail.asp?c=Toilet Flanges&s=&s2=&sku=LOC-C40-440&r1=&r2=&r3=

A third choice would be to couple a plastic pipe to the cast iron. That would be done below, or you would rip up some flooring, and repair.

 

[Treeman]

For the rotten floor, you might be able to use one of these flanges:https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/replacing-a-rotted-floor-under-the-toilet/

And, if you have access to the crawl space, you could fasten the plumbing flange with bolts instead of wood screws.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Timoteo]

Ok. I think this is what I should do. Please correct me if I am mistaken. (crawl space access is difficult, would have to hire a particularly thin guy to crawl under there!)

(1) attached "Sioux Chief closet flange support" to floor.
https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-490-11322-Closet-Support/dp/B000K13TL6

(2) insert 4 inch "Sioux Chief PushTite Flange" (3 inch outlet with red gasket)
https://www.amazon.com/SIOUX-CHIEF-PBS44AZ-Push-Tite-Flange/dp/B0044FYOA4


That should allow me to attach the toilet. correct?

Also.. the closet flange is available in PVC (black) or ABS (white). Unsure of the difference/which is better?

 

[Reach4]

Ok. I think this is what I should do. Please correct me if I am mistaken. (crawl space access is difficult, would have to hire a particularly thin guy to crawl under there!)

It could also be preceded by somebody with buckets and shovel to increase the clearance where necessary.

I think getting parts in advance and planning is probably an unstated plan.

Do you think you have measured adequately? You need that pipe to be 4 inch ID. You need to see how much extension, if any, will be needed for that PushTite flange.

You need to clean the inside of that pipe down to where the gasket hits. I don't know what would be good for that. I might start by scraping with a butcher knife. Maybe consider a hole saw. I wonder if a 4 inch hole saw would fit.

(2) insert 4 inch "Sioux Chief PushTite Flange" (3 inch outlet with red gasket)
https://www.amazon.com/SIOUX-CHIEF-PBS44AZ-Push-Tite-Flange/dp/B0044FYOA4

I would tend to prefer the Sioux Chief 887 part with the stainless ring. That all-plastic
886-GP does appear to have bigger flaps that may be more forgiving, so maybe it would be the better choice. Also the 886-GP has a tail that is 3-7/16 long (an inch longer), and might not need extending.

Also, I am not sure whether or not the 886-GP is extendable the same way. While the 887 says "Flange Outlet I.D. 3" Sch. 40 Hub", the 886 does not have such a spec listed.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/886-GP-product.pdf
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/887-GPM-product.pdf

 

[Treeman]

IF required, you can do more extensive work all from above if you cut out/replace a small portion of the subfloor out to the nearest floor joists as shown in Reach's link in post 20.

 

[Timoteo]

It could also be preceded by somebody with buckets and shovel to increase the clearance where necessary.

I think getting parts in advance and planning is probably an unstated plan.

Do you think you have measured adequately? You need that pipe to be 4 inch ID. You need to see how much extension, if any, will be needed for that PushTite flange.

You need to clean the inside of that pipe down to where the gasket hits. I don't know what would be good for that. I might start by scraping with a butcher knife. Maybe consider a hole saw. I wonder if a 4 inch hole saw would fit.


I would prefer the Sioux Chief 887 part with the stainless ring. That all-plastic
886-GP does appear to have bigger flaps that may be more forgiving, so maybe it would be the better choice.

measuring: the cast iron pipe is 4 inches below floor... with a 4 inch lead flange attached that comes to floor level. The pushtite flange should go right to where the lead and cast iron are joined. The gasket itself would seal up against the old lead flange, which is smooth.

The lead flange is 4 " in diameter... but smooshed on the sides near the top...Which is why I am thinking the Sioux Chief 886-GP - which has a large gasket - would let me get past the "smooshed" part and still form a seal below that point.

Since the pushtite flange is 3 7/16 long.... that takes me to where the edge of the cast iron and lead flange meet. Will that cause problems...is that okay?