jtech1
Member
Seems like there should be a better way to do this...
For my Phoenix Light, most techs want to just drill a hole in my exhaust PVC at unit for combustion test port and plug it when done. Local inspector goes by manufacturer specs, which state NO unglued joints in PVC exhaust. Do I insist that the tech climb a ladder and do the test at the exhaust vent outside? Will the CO/CO2 values that need to be tweaked be as accurate at the exhaust vent? I realize that temperature reading will be different.
Seems to me that someone should make a code approved PVC fitting for class 4 vents with test port in it. Looks like IPEX makes one but it is only certified when used with their 636 vent lines... marketing trick I am sure. I see others make their own with a PVC tee, threaded reducer and threaded plug... but, technically, that still violates the manufactures spec of no unglued joints, and local inspector will not approve it.
How can manufacturer highly recommend this test to be done, but provide no approved way to do it? Running back and forth from outside vent, and tweaking adjustments that are easy to overshoot and have to back off, could be quite a workout... and is it as accurate?
Feedback appreciated.
For my Phoenix Light, most techs want to just drill a hole in my exhaust PVC at unit for combustion test port and plug it when done. Local inspector goes by manufacturer specs, which state NO unglued joints in PVC exhaust. Do I insist that the tech climb a ladder and do the test at the exhaust vent outside? Will the CO/CO2 values that need to be tweaked be as accurate at the exhaust vent? I realize that temperature reading will be different.
Seems to me that someone should make a code approved PVC fitting for class 4 vents with test port in it. Looks like IPEX makes one but it is only certified when used with their 636 vent lines... marketing trick I am sure. I see others make their own with a PVC tee, threaded reducer and threaded plug... but, technically, that still violates the manufactures spec of no unglued joints, and local inspector will not approve it.
How can manufacturer highly recommend this test to be done, but provide no approved way to do it? Running back and forth from outside vent, and tweaking adjustments that are easy to overshoot and have to back off, could be quite a workout... and is it as accurate?
Feedback appreciated.
