Cast Iron Tub, Desperately need help

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I am in desperate need of advice. Lack of funds are a serious issue, therefore I cannot hire a plumber. My tub cracked and was irreparable. I bought a like new used cast iron American standard tub. 2 friends have already tried to install it. They have no experience. One put up the drywall prematurely, the second one put up the ledger and set tub in..with MUCH difficulty. But the plumbing is 6 inches off. The tub is sitting on 2 2x4s under the legs and a ledger, the whole thing sitting on a osb sub floor and upper cement board floor. Because of lack of money, i chose a glue up surround for the shower. Should I try to move the ancient plumbing or line up tub with plumbing and build out walls to the tub edge? Also should i remove 2x4s and replace with metal shims? Please don't judge. I'm an older woman with zero plumbing experience just trying to get this usable. I am not weak, I work in shipping and lift heavy items all day. However I would LOVE to be able to shower in my own home again. It's been months!
 

ImOld

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I'm sure I am vastly older than you so I get to judge you. A cracked tub of any material can be patched temporarily or permanently. No need to run around in a panic. Inexperienced, well meaning friends are not what you want. Things will get worse as you've seen and end up being far more expensive. You need a handyman with a following. I'm sure you will get answers here telling you to do whatever. The best of advice can lead to the worst of outcomes without experienced people. How about some pictures?
 

WorthFlorida

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Most tubs are 60" wide, is your replacement tub the same width? FYI... Bathtubs are install right up the the wall studs sitting on a ledger board, then a drywall product such as cement board installed to about 1/2" from the tub but past the top edge, then tile or as you have glued up surround almost touching the porcelain finish. You'll need to put a bead of caulking between the surround and tub but do not overload it. The caulking should be somewhat recessed under the surround for the best look.

Not sure where your drain is exactly to the current tub but this is a basic tub connection. The drain arm can be longer to make the connection to the sanitary tee and the overflow riser can also be made longer. The difficulty comes as access to the drain with the tub in place and the type of pipe of the drain, PVC or galvanized pipe.


Bathtub-Drain-Diagram.jpg
 

Terry

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Cast iron tubs are at least 300 pounds. I would never advise DIY on a cast iron tub.
In your case since you have the tub, and you have a wood floor, it may be easier to set the tub in place and then move the drain to the new location.
Do you have access to the floor below? You will need it.
If it was a plumber doing the install, then I would expect a plumber to move the drain first and then drop the tub down if access was limited below.

If the apron is shimmed and you have the ledger board, I don't see the need for shims. It's a nice thing for an engineer to think about at his desk though.
The tub will outlast the home anyway.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/installing-a-kohler-villager-cast-iron-tub.33212/
 
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I'm sure I am vastly older than you so I get to judge you. A cracked tub of any material can be patched temporarily or permanently. No need to run around in a panic. Inexperienced, well meaning friends are not what you want. Things will get worse as you've seen and end up being far more expensive. You need a handyman with a following. I'm sure you will get answers here telling you to do whatever. The best of advice can lead to the worst of outcomes without experienced people. How about some pictures?
The tun was repaired correctly several times. However even the best patch job doesnt hold when your child is a giant. My son is 6'8 and weighs over 300 lbs. I am almost 50 yrs old. And handymen that can be trusted are difficult to come by where i live. I can maybe get some pics up soon.
 
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Cast iron tubs are at least 300 pounds. I would never advise DIY on a cast iron tub.
In your case since you have the tub, and you have a wood floor, it may be easier to set the tub in place and then move the drain to the new location.
Do you have access to the floor below? You will need it.
If it was a plumber doing the install, then I would expect a plumber to move the drain first and then drop the tub down if access was limited below.

If the apron is shimmed and you have the ledger board, I don't see the need for shims. It's a nice thing for an engineer to think about at his desk though.
The tub will outlast the home anyway.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/installing-a-kohler-villager-cast-iron-tub.33212/
Thanks for the link. I will check it out. The floor is wood and my last "helper" installed cement board on top of it. There is a crawl space under where the tub sits. The bathroom was an addition in the back corner of the house decades ago...or so Im told. The plumbing is all old cast iron. I fear messing with it and possibly creating more issues.
 
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