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Taylorjm
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I've only put the heads on a new resin tank, never had to take them off. I know it said only hand tight and I really really wanted to tighten it up more, but I didn't. It didn't leak. Hope someday I won't regret putting some anti seize on it, but I thought it was all plastic so I wouldn't expect it to fuse together.
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The first half of your sentence implies that you did put anti-seize on it; the second half implies you didn't.
For plastic threads, you would need a special anti-seize that will not chemically damage the plastic. For potable water, the anti-seize would also have to be certified to ANSI/NSF Standard 61. These products do exist; they are often used in the food processing industries.
Whatever you do, do NOT spray any petroleum-based thread penetrant or lubricant on the threads, nor any other chemical that could be toxic.
What are you using to try to remove the head?
"Plenty of torque" is a relative term. Obviously, the torque is not plenty enough. If the threads are galled or otherwise "welded" together, then applying enough torque will shear the head off.
You have disconnected the plumbing.
If the bypass valve is on the back of the softener valve, remove the pressure in the tank by taking the unit out of bypass. Hit the bypass valve with the heel of your right hand.
Thanks friends.
I think I'll go at it with a "regular" rubber mallet next. The thread just above suggests dead blow. Might be a good excuse to get one of those as I don't yet have one! In response to other suggestions and comments: I have the head stripped down to the bottom half only and the tank strapped to a wall stud. I've never put anything like antisieze on the threads. I had this head off many (10+) years ago. I would have put pure silicone grease on the threads, if anything. Can't recall. Torque? 2x2 with 5/16 GRK lags dropped across either end. I stopped when one of the lags bent . . . . I'm pretty certain that the resin is toast, so I wonder if the resin leeched up into the threads and has them stuck. The only chemicals I have considered are Isopropyl (Noryl is apparently impervious to isopropyl) for the chance of resin lock and pure liquid silicone in case silicone grease has hardened for some reason. But in this situation how would you get any fluid to the threads anyway?
Before reach4 pointed me to the mallet, I was considering heating the neck with a hairdryer in case of gunk in the threads. Any opinions on using moderate heat?
I'll keep you posted. Again, I greatly appreciate your suggestions. k
I think I'll go at it with a "regular" rubber mallet next. The thread just above suggests dead blow. Might be a good excuse to get one of those as I don't yet have one! In response to other suggestions and comments: I have the head stripped down to the bottom half only and the tank strapped to a wall stud. I've never put anything like antisieze on the threads. I had this head off many (10+) years ago. I would have put pure silicone grease on the threads, if anything. Can't recall. Torque? 2x2 with 5/16 GRK lags dropped across either end. I stopped when one of the lags bent . . . . I'm pretty certain that the resin is toast, so I wonder if the resin leeched up into the threads and has them stuck. The only chemicals I have considered are Isopropyl (Noryl is apparently impervious to isopropyl) for the chance of resin lock and pure liquid silicone in case silicone grease has hardened for some reason. But in this situation how would you get any fluid to the threads anyway?
Before reach4 pointed me to the mallet, I was considering heating the neck with a hairdryer in case of gunk in the threads. Any opinions on using moderate heat?
I'll keep you posted. Again, I greatly appreciate your suggestions. k
-- SOLVED! Tack Hammer and a four inch piece of two-by-four. Six fairly moderate (relative term!) strokes. Voila! I'm reluctant to strike plastic stuff, you know ("Junky plastic!"). But that link to the dead blow mallet got me thinking. Thanks again! kFuture FYI: The advantages of a dead blow hammer are not just that it doesn't rebound (which can cause damage or injury in some situations), but it also transfers more of the impulse energy to the target. Which means you don't have to hit the target as hard as you would with a regular mallet.
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