Broken Stub Out - Cracked Pipe - How do I get it out? PICS

[sempe813]

Hello my name is Paul and I'm new to the forum. I have very little plumbing experience, but I figured someone here might know how to fix my issue.

I recently purchased a property and need to fix this disaster under the sink. The plumbing is from the 1950-70s. The pipe in the picture is completely rusted and even split down the middle. The metal portion is about 4-6 inches lone and it connect a PVC pipe that goes 90 degrees to the right.

How do I go about removing and replacing the metal portion? It is doable without ripping out more of the wall?

Thanks!

 

[Terry]

You will need more wall out. Hopefully there is access on a wall behind without tile. If not, you will be removing the tile side.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[sempe813]

You will need more wall out. Hopefully there is access on a wall behind without tile. If not, you will be removing the tile side.

Thanks for the reply. I figured that would be the case. The laundry room is on the other side of the wall so I might try attacking it from that end.

 

[Reach4]

Is that inside of a vanity? If so, I would open the wall in there. When you close it back up, it does not have to have tile. You can make it look like the back of the vanity rather than part of the walls. I am not a pro.

 

[sempe813]

Is that inside of a vanity? If so, I would open the wall in there. When you close it back up, it does not have to have tile. You can make it look like the back of the vanity rather than part of the walls. I am not a pro.

That's actually a brilliant idea!

 

[Dgeist]

Thanks for the reply. I figured that would be the case. The laundry room is on the other side of the wall so I might try attacking it from that end.

I think this is a better option. Assuming it's not tiled, a small section of drywall in the laundry is infinitely less complicated to repair safely than a DWV system. You probably want to inspect it better anyway to make sure there's no other nastiness or other "repairs" inside there from when the PVC was installed. Open up a section that allows you to make a patch directly onto the face of a stud if possible. Larger patches often look better since they're easier to tape and finish.

 

[Dj2]

You have to expose more of the VERTICAL PIPE in the wall, to be able to determine what to do next. Under the sink or from the back - choose the easiest way, it's up to you.
Do that first, then load up new photos.

 

[Reach4]

This is the inside of the bathroom vanity where I replaced a big broken cast iron santee. In retrospect I would have opened much more of the wall, but the project started with the expectation that I would not need to open the wall at all. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ng-3-8-od-copper-to-toilet-and-lavatory.71000 describes a different aspect of the project.

The sides and vertical board on the left, with the white paint splotch, are original. The back is where I finished by using the cheap 7mm thick "laminate" flooring. The visible screws are square drive 2.5 inch drywall screws screwing into wood.