Bathroom faucet and shower only hot water

[Jocel]

When clothes washer is filling up using cold water, there's only hot water going out of bathroom shower and faucet. This is happening on this bathroom only the rest of the house is ok. I don't think it's the single handle faucet's cartridge as I switched the cartridges from 2 faucets, problem still the same. When I followed the pipes in the basement, looks like the same hot and cold water pipes goes to the laundry (ground level) and bathroom with problematic shower and faucet (2nd level directly on top of laundry). It seems not enough cold water pressure is going up the bathroom when washer is filling up water. I tried to dialed back the cold water going to washer, this made the water in faucet and shower become warm but not as hot as before. For now it's ok but how do I solve this problem? So I can dial back the cold water to washer (it takes time to fil it up now) and I will still have enough cold water going up to the bathroom.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Terry]

You can tie the 1/2" cold to a 3/4" cold so that both have their own 1/2" lines off of that.
I never run a bathroom group on the same 1/2" lines as a washer. In fact, I run 3/4" for the cold on a bathroom group.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jocel]

You can tie the 1/2" cold to a 3/4" cold so that both have their own 1/2" lines off of that.
I never run a bathroom group on the same 1/2" lines as a washer. In fact, I run 3/4" for the cold on a bathroom group.

Thanks Terry.

Separate line for washer and bathroom from the main 3/4", right?

It's interesting though that we've living in this house for 15 yrs now and we encounterd this problem only recently. Can it be that the line going to the bathroom got clogged or have some sort of build up?

 

[Terry]

Can it be that the line going to the bathroom got clogged or have some sort of build up?

How old is the home? Are the pipes galvanized steel?

 

[hj]

I really doubt that anything plugged the line, but something else could be causing a big drop in pressure. We would have to check the system to see if there is some other cause for your symptoms. Do NOT start changing things until you know what the actual cause is.

 

[Jocel]

How old is the home? Are the pipes galvanized steel?

It's 15 yrs old. Pipes are copper.

 

[Jocel]

I really doubt that anything plugged the line, but something else could be causing a big drop in pressure. We would have to check the system to see if there is some other cause for your symptoms. Do NOT start changing things until you know what the actual cause is.

What would be the tests to do? Can I do it myself or do I need plumber to do it?

 

[hj]

No way to give step by step, because it would be a try "A", and see if that sent you to "B", or somewhere else. It would be a progressive process.

 

[Jocel]

Terry,

Any suggestion?

The only option I can think of is to install new cold 1/2" pipe coming from 3/4" directly to washer. Retain the existing cold pipe going up to bathroom. Basically, similar to what you've originally recommended. What do you think?

Thanks again.

 

[Dj2]

Terry,

Any suggestion?

The only option I can think of is to install new cold 1/2" pipe coming from 3/4" directly to washer. Retain the existing cold pipe going up to bathroom. Basically, similar to what you've originally recommended. What do you think?

Thanks again.

Survey says: This should do it, barring any unforeseen problem.

 

[Jocel]

Survey says: This should do it, barring any unforeseen problem.

Thanks dj2.

To be sure, I will put a tee from 3/4" then let the water go as if washer is filling up, and then check if bathroom will actually have cold water, then install pipe/flex to washer. Makes sense?

 

[Dgeist]

Have you checked the pressure regulator at the service entrance?

 

[Jocel]

Have you checked the pressure regulator at the service entrance?

By the meter, right? Yep, it's fully open.

 

[Reach4]

The restriction has to be on piping that is not shared with the rest of the symptom-free house, so the PRV or other things before the WH input or problem-free colds are not the cause.

On running your new pipe, you can use whatever type works best for you. I like PEX for longer runs where it simplifies installation, although it should be supported every 24 inches. In my case, I was replacing Galvanized. Others prefer copper. Others prefer CPVC. Each has advantages. Just don't add new steel.

Copper is really nice, and the chance of a leak is pretty minimal. With the fact that your existing plumbing is copper, that keeps things nicely uniform. I like the Oatey No. 5 flux with their silver-containing solder.

You may not have to replace the pipe all of the way to the washing machine. You could just plug the existing tee-off to the WM, and connect the cut pipe to the new copper. Chances are that is what you were planning.

 

[Jocel]

The restriction has to be on piping that is not shared with the rest of the symptom-free house, so the PRV or other things before the WH input or problem-free colds are not the cause.

You may not have to replace the pipe all of the way to the washing machine. You could just plug the existing tee-off to the WM, and connect the cut pipe to the new copper. Chances are that is what you were planning.

I agree with the first statement. However, I'm not clear on the other one. Would you mind elaborating? Just to be sure we're on the same page, the 1/2" pipe to bathroom has a tee going to WM. That's why I want to retain it and install a new pipe from 3/4" directly to WM.

 

[Jocel]

Just so you know guys, it worked! Thanks for you guidance. Used crossbite tee and PEX tubing. Not bad for my first attempt in DIY plumbing.

It looks like city water pressure is no longer the same hence the problem was encountered now but not before.