Bath volume

Users who are viewing this thread

xd2005

Member
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Points
6
I recently purchased a mid-60''s vintage home. The bath/shower has a three handle valve. I'very noticed the tub seems to have very little water volume. Furthermore, if I turn hot on all the way, I do not seem to see an increase in volume when turning on the cold as well.

The shower seems to work great. I haven't tested, but it's possible that it fills the tub faster than the tub spout

Additional info, the lines to the tub are 1/2" copper. I took the stems out of the three valves and nothing popped out as unusual to me.

Thoughts on what's driving lower water volume for tub (vs shower, possibly)? Is it simply an issue with 1/2" lines?

Thanks!
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,459
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Are you sure you have copper all the way from the water heater?
Mid sixties could also have some galvanized in the mix. It may be that you are overdue for a repipe, or it could be an issue with the center diverter on the three handle valve too.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,892
Reaction score
4,436
Points
113
Location
IL
The shower seems to work great. I haven't tested, but it's possible that it fills the tub faster than the tub spout
How long does it take the tub spout to fill a 5 gallon bucket with cold only, and how long with hot+cold?
 

xd2005

Member
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Points
6
I can follow the entire pipe and all is copper. It starts as 3/4, but for some reason they switched to 1/2 at some point.

I'll time a bucket momentarily.
 

xd2005

Member
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Cold only - 2:50
Cold + hot - 2:50
Cold shower - 1:50
 

Dj2

In the Trades
Messages
2,611
Reaction score
258
Points
83
Location
California
The 1/2" pipes are not the issue, based on the info you gave.
Remove the spout, and see if you have galv from the rough in to the spout. Check the spout visually.
Also turn on the water to the bath, with the spout off and see if the symptom persists.
 

xd2005

Member
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Was able to get under the house with the Mrs.' help in diagnosing. Two items: sure enough, it's galvanized between diverter and spout. Second, it's also leaking. Fun project in the future. Fortunately, it backs up to a closet so I have room to cut out the backside to work.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Why people think galvanized is a good thing in a modern supply system is beyond me. glad you found the problem. Brass or copper is your best bet. Prior to this, did you notice any rust stains or discolored water upon initial use? That's a cardinal symptom of steel in the supply line somewhere. Once that happens, bigger problems are not far down the road.
 

xd2005

Member
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Points
6
I had a chance to dig into this today. The leak is actually coming from the diverter stem where it screws into the body. I purchased the rebuild kit and we have replaced the diverter stem washer and plastic bonnet with the two plastic washers provided in the kit (as well as replacing the other parts).

The spacing seems correct with the two replacement washers. However, it continues to leak around the stem, between the diverter body and the stem.

Suggestions on what we may be missing? We are considering putting a rubber O-ring on the stem housing in place of one of the plastic washers to see if we can get a better seal, but also assume there is a reason PP uses two plastic washers and not a rubber O-ring. Thanks!
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Plastic will probably wear better than rubber, but it may be that you need to snug up the bonnet nut a slight bit more to cause them to create the seal. Get it too tight, and you won't be able to turn the handle. On old valves, they used different packing materials. The shape of the bonnet nut causes it to compress the seal as you tighten it.
 

xd2005

Member
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Sorry for confusion. We're talking where the entire valve screws into the diverter body.
 

Dj2

In the Trades
Messages
2,611
Reaction score
258
Points
83
Location
California
xd2005,
You have spent and invested so much already and you still have a leak. Maybe it's the original faucet...could be a 57 year old faucet...

It makes no sense to me to continue with this faucet, now that we know that the thread is leaking. This is beyond fixing.

Just replace the faucet and be done with it. If you have access from the back of the bathroom wall (a closet or a hallway), it's fairly easy to do for DIY.
Or, hire a plumber, if you can't handle it.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks