Basement Plumbing Rough In

[Muzzlehead]

I am tying into a 4" Cast Iron soil line running under my concrete slab. The soil stack serves an additional bathroom (8 FU) located on the first floor and vents out the attic through 3" galvanized steel.

Questions:

1) Overall plan; any problems?

2) Should I vent to the attic with a 3” or will the 2” suffice (easier to get into wall). I have two 2” vents tying together above the vanity and running from there to attic.

3) Is there a max distance for the trap off the shower? I would like to set a clean out over the far end of the trap just behind the toilet in the floor.

4) Do I need an additional clean out after the toilet/tub junction?


Black line = Soil Stack
Green line = new branch; solid and dotted is 4” single green 2”
Red line = Vent; all vent 2”, tub vent ties to sink vent <6” above sink and runs to attic to tie into main
Soil stack 3” vent

All angles on DVW are sanitary T or 45 degree angle
All vent angles are sanitary T or 90- degree angle

All pipe run at @ ¼ inch grade toward main soil stack; 2” DVW ties to 4” branch at 45 degree angle with sanitary t

Helpful Plumbing Hints for Residential Construction by Bert Polk Plumbing Inspector Lincoln County

 

[Cass]

every trap needs its own vent

Helpful Plumbing Hints for Residential Construction by Bert Polk Plumbing Inspector Lincoln County

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Muzzlehead]

Here is a new plumbing plan; I think it is clearer and streamlined.

Red is vent
Green drain

I assume I should drop the drain in the wet wall to a 90 and then into a horizontal y.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f51/muzzlehead/newplumbplan1.jpg

Any comments

 

[Cacher_Chick]

I just had a light go off in my dense head... should I have a vent come off the top of the overflow of the tub instead of adding the line in yellow?

A vent will accomplish nothing if it is not installed "downstream" from the fixtures trap.

 

[Muzzlehead]

The picture of the basement with comments above is my latest plumbing layout; I removed the previous pictures to limit confusion as they were incorrect.

Any thoughts?

 

[Cacher_Chick]

Looks better. I would re-vent the lav even though it might be a short enough branch to not be required. I would install cleanouts a there and on the stack.
1/4 bend at the lav must be a long turn. Can't use a 1/4 bend under the floor but 1/16 or 1/8 bends ok. A wye & 1/8 bend combo should do it for you.

Hopefully one of the pro's will pipe in to verify. There may be some discrepancy depending on what code you fall under and local codes. You should pull a permit so there are no surprises down the road. For instance, some areas must use cast iron below grade.

 

[Jc60618]

It will be wise to bump out that tub wall. By bumping the wall out you will have more play for your overflow and valve. Also consider using a 2x6 for your plumbing wall it will give you more room for the water piping. If you dont want to use a 2x6 put that 2x4 bottom plate 5 inches from the wall and run your plumbing in the chase. By doing this you wont have to drill out for your stub ups. Below is how I would have done it hope it helps.

 

[NHmaster]

The only vent you need there is the one off the lav and make sure it is 2" from the san tee down.

 

[Muzzlehead]

Thanks guys these comments were very helpful. I am banging on concrete now.

I will put a pic up of the 'dry run' layout once I have the wall built and stack run.

I'll keep you all posted, thanks again!