Shower pan drain connection to vented stack

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Thanks for the feedback! And as far as the direction goes, I want to ensure that the sweep goes towards the drain, and not towards the trap, correct? The way I look at it, the sweep should be angled such that any water that might get in the vent pipe has a smooth path back to the drain.
 

Jeff H Young

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Thanks for the feedback! And as far as the direction goes, I want to ensure that the sweep goes towards the drain, and not towards the trap, correct? The way I look at it, the sweep should be angled such that any water that might get in the vent pipe has a smooth path back to the drain.
yea basicaly as if water csame down that vent it would sweep in proper direction (down hill) you got this ! if any othe issue comes ask
 
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1000043835.jpg

After looking at the geometry in the space I am working, I am considering doing this with the trap. I think this is ok, but I have a few comments/questions:
1) I can put up to 135 degrees of direction change in the pipe from the shower drain to the trap, I think.
2) I want to avoid drilling 2"+ holes in my joists, so I want to run all pipes below the joists. This means that I will drop just over 1" per foot after the vent connection. Can I put a 45 degree section to lose height, or just go aggressive on my slope after the vent connection?

Thanks again, Ivan
 

wwhitney

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The total drop from the trap outlet to the vent takeoff is limited to 2" (one trap diameter). If your vent takeoff is at a fixed elevation, lower the trap until you comply, while maintaining a minimum of 1/4" per foot drop. After the vent takeoff, no maximum rate or manner of drop.

The wye in your picture does not match your description in post #22, it's backwards.

Cheers, Wayne
 

wwhitney

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Looks fine, assuming the trap to vent takeoff drop meets the limits I listed, as it appears to.

Note that with everything dry fit, you will need to cut your pipe pieces a little longer where your fitting locations are critical and shouldn't move. A 2" pipe socket is 3/4", but a dry fit will only go in 1/2" to 5/8"--it's an interference fit, but the when you use the solvent cement, it softens the plastic so you can insert it all the way, which you should do.

The way I deal with this is to measure the visible gap between the hubs, add 2 * 3/4", and then maybe subtract 1/16". Actually, that's what I do for the first one, then I measure the result after gluing up, and adjust my future lengths accordingly.

Cheers, Wayne
 
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Looks fine, assuming the trap to vent takeoff drop meets the limits I listed, as it appears to.

Note that with everything dry fit, you will need to cut your pipe pieces a little longer where your fitting locations are critical and shouldn't move. A 2" pipe socket is 3/4", but a dry fit will only go in 1/2" to 5/8"--it's an interference fit, but the when you use the solvent cement, it softens the plastic so you can insert it all the way, which you should do.

The way I deal with this is to measure the visible gap between the hubs, add 2 * 3/4", and then maybe subtract 1/16". Actually, that's what I do for the first one, then I measure the result after gluing up, and adjust my future lengths accordingly.

Cheers, Wayne
Excellent, thanks for the advice. Getting a little late in the night tonight, but I shall glue it all up tomorrow! :)
 
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