Mike Step
New Member
We live on the frozen tundra of Illinois. I have what I believe is a 220 pump 65 feet deep. Pump stopped 2 weeks ago. YEAH, wife is TICKED! A couple of days after transferring power to another breaker. Pump ran fine, then stopped. The pump isn't the problem, as I can run it with a generator, 220 line. I have 220 at the breaker, a 3 wire (blk, red ,green and ground.) Goes up in the wall, and I presume out in the ground. They are
round wires. Where my water line comes in I have a flat 3 wire (blk, wht, ground) that goes directly to the pump switch (110), then to its own single pull breaker. Thus far everything tests out, as far as I can tell, correct. At the well i have 2 wire flat, with ground, coming out of the ground, hot blk, wht un powered, and ground. Running down the casing, I have blk , red and yellow I believe.
That's all I have, and on its own, doesn't work. I have two hot blks , and two cold whts on the other side right side of switch. Should all the terminals be hot, able to be interrupted by the operation of the new switch? Assuming this follows the water supply out to casing thereby supplying 220 (blk and wht hot, and ground?
Comments, especially correction, is much appreciated!
round wires. Where my water line comes in I have a flat 3 wire (blk, wht, ground) that goes directly to the pump switch (110), then to its own single pull breaker. Thus far everything tests out, as far as I can tell, correct. At the well i have 2 wire flat, with ground, coming out of the ground, hot blk, wht un powered, and ground. Running down the casing, I have blk , red and yellow I believe.
That's all I have, and on its own, doesn't work. I have two hot blks , and two cold whts on the other side right side of switch. Should all the terminals be hot, able to be interrupted by the operation of the new switch? Assuming this follows the water supply out to casing thereby supplying 220 (blk and wht hot, and ground?
Comments, especially correction, is much appreciated!