Adequate Framing?

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Thomas K

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These photos are not of a basement; they're of lower floor of split level home. None of home is underground. I've been replacing taped up wiring in this room, and am wondering what I need to do here to install new drywall. I removed old, which was covered with paneling, and found bare walls. Exterior is brick and no signs of water intrusion or mold.

Whoever built this wall set most of the 2 x 4s at 32" OC, and I know I need to add studs to make it 16" OC. I have read that it is not code to place bare studs against concrete block, but don't know how to fix this. Studs are attached to wall with screws in countersunk holes. They're sturdy, but not attached to 2nd floor joists above, and are not load-bearing. Entire lower floor is set up with these walls.

Should I use something like Drylok on interior of the walls, or should I just leave it alone? And are walls like this usually insulated? I'm beginning to think wife and I bought a money pit.

Thanks for any replies!

-Thomas.
 

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Gregee

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Not ideal to have wood contacting concrete/block, but since you're above grade and all is dry, it's unlikely to cause a problem. I would recommend at least placing tar paper (or drylock would work fine) behind any new studs before installing. Maybe there's space behind to slip tar paper (or drylock) behind existing lumber? Plenty of homes have been built with wood furring strips attached directly to CMU without problem.

Moisture/moisture wicking is biggest concern but if moisture has not been a problem for 50 years, it's unlikely to become so now. 16" OC studs are for structure; your studs are "cosmetic" and only need to support your drywall, so while 32" OC may be not be ideal, it would work. If mine, I'd install 2x3" studs in between areas to create an air space away from the CMU for any new studs and 2x3" studs (carefully selected) would be more than adequate. I would then insulate via spray foam or fiberglass batts to make it more comfortable.

Greg
 

Thomas K

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No room behind existing studs, Greg. They countersunk holes in the studs and attached them directly to wall with some kind of masonry screws. There is a top plate on studs, but it doesn't attach to floor joists above. It is sturdy, and I could add a few 2 x 4s on the walls to make it 16" oc for better drywall support. For ceiling, somebuilt supports that drop down from second floor joists. Ceiling height with drywall installed is right at 7' 3", so not ideal. By moving some wires (already rerouted a few through joists), I could attach ceiling to joists above, or move the existing framing up a couple of inches.

Will existing wall be okay the way it is? Or should the top plate have been attached to floor joists above? I can reframe if I have to.

I've always heard it's not good to insulate next to block walls with fiberglass batts because of moisture wicking, that closed cell foam spray is better, and some recommend putting a half inch gypsum board on wall and then adding XPS followed by an interior wall and fiberglass batts. So it's confusing.
 

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Gregee

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A vapor barrier like tar paper would suffice if installing batt insulation. If using closed-cell foam, that takes care of itself. Hard to tell from photos, but appears there are not a lot of recessed screws/attachments. If not, why not simply deconstruct it all, place foam sill seal, drylock and/or tar paper all and then reframe with framing set away from walls by ~ 1/2" - 1". I'd still secure top plates to joists. If not tar paper or dry lock, you could spray foam which would seal behind offset studs as well, thus providing a continuous interior"envelope". Might seem daunting initially, but would provide a much better and more comfortable result and would be a fun project.

Greg
 

Thomas K

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Thanks, Greg! If Drylok will suffice, I can remove the framing, paint it with Drylok, and reinstall with fiberglass batts. I'm thinking only the exterior block walls will need to be coated? I'll have to use 2 x 4s because of batt thickness, but can use 2 x 3 on the one interior wall for drywall.
 

Gregee

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Thomas,

Thinking more about how I would approach this...another option would be to place 1/2" to 1" thick foam board (4'x8' sheets) against the block and then frame your wall "atop" of that. Some foam boards have overlapping joints; those that don't can otherwise be taped along the seams. Foam boards would be slightly more money than drylock but quicker to install and add better R-value.

Greg
 

Thomas K

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The following is a direct quote excerpt from an article I read on it. I think your idea is the same, that is, install 4 x 8 sheets of foam board and build a 2 x 3 wall in front of it for drywall.

"If the block wall is part of a living space, most homeowners prefer a standard interior wall, finished with drywall panels. This requires furring, which involves attaching dimensional lumber to the inside of the block wall with concrete screws, following standard stud-spacing guidelines. Rigid foam board is then fitted between the furring strips and drywall installed over that. If the floor is concrete slab-on-grade, any furring boards that make contact with the floor must be of treated wood. Standard two-by-four studs, installed flat on the wall, provide 1 1/2-inch furring spaces in which to add rigid foam boards. If the wall has outlets or switches, you can install shallow electrical boxes that fit in the 1 1/2-inch furring spaces."
 
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