3” closet flange?

[Peach1303]

Dealing with a basement toilet that has 3” pipe leading to the ejector. It had a 4” PVC flange around it that the toilet sat on. The issue is that they concreted around that flange and I’m unable to get it out on the sides. I’ve seen in the past that there was discussion about a flange sitting inside of the 3” pipe but I’m not sure how well that worked out? Obviously the amount allowed down that opening will be greatly reduced. I don’t know any other way of doing other than ripping out the concrete around the flange and attempting to remove it without damaging the drain pipe. Basically, are there any flanges that fit INSIDE (not yelling, just exclaiming) the 3” pipe? I’ve only found them that go outside the 3”. Any thoughts?

thanks

 

[Terry]

They make closet flanges that will go inside the 3" pipe. Both those that glue in and those that are a push fit.
A typical trapway is 2" dropping downward. Your horizontal at the bottom of the 90 will be 3".

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Peach1303]

They make closet flanges that will go inside the 3" pipe. Both those that glue in and those that are a push fit.
A typical trapway is 2" dropping downward. Your horizontal at the bottom of the 90 will be 3".

thank you very much!

 

[Reach4]

How far below the finished floor is the top of that plastic? I think you may want to build up the area that the outside of the flange will sit on.

You might use a 3 inch PushTite, which avoids gluing, and makes for easy do-overs and adjustments.

A Danco Hydroseat over wax over the existing plastic might be a good choice too.

 

[Jadnashua]

For a 3", inside fit flange, it's ID will be around 2.5". Some toilets try to make a 90-degree, fairly sharp bend right at their output, some make that turn IN the toilet, so when it exits, it's already pointing down, and doesn't have to try to make a sharp bend. Depending on the toilet you have, an inside fit to a 3" pipe MIGHT be a problem. It depends on what you're trying to flush away...some won't make it, some will, depending on the diet, health, and the person involved along with the toilet.

 

[Peach1303]

Here’s a picture of the bend. Thinking I’m better off with a different toilet then?

 

[Reach4]

Here’s a picture of the bend. Thinking I’m better off with a different toilet then?

That path looks perfectly fine.

 

[Jadnashua]

Not as good as some, better than others...some people produce long, hard stools, and no normal toilet works, most are softer and smaller, and that won't be an issue...since you have it, try it. You'll know probably in a week or so as you eat various things and see what happens.

 

[John Gayewski]

This is why we always use 4" for a toilet riser. In a bad situation such as this you can ram bit the 4" inside flange out and replace it.

If I were in your situation I would carefully demo the concrete with a hammer drill. Then if I ruined the flange I'd just cut it or and replace it.

If your happy enough with an inside "doohickey" on a 3" pipe that's your choice as this belongs to you. If a customer hired me to do this job I would advise against it.

 

[Peach1303]

This is why we always use 4" for a toilet riser. In a bad situation such as this you can ram bit the 4" inside flange out and replace it.

If I were in your situation I would carefully demo the concrete with a hammer drill. Then if I ruined the flange I'd just cut it or and replace it.

If your happy enough with an inside "doohickey" on a 3" pipe that's your choice as this belongs to you. If a customer hired me to do this job I would advise against it.

It’s not the flange that I’m worried about ruining, it’s the drain pipe. Sorry if I misstated.

 

[Peach1303]

I should also probably mention that this is the basement bathroom and we be utilized the least out of all toilets in the house by a lot.

 

[Terry]

The toilet has a 2" passageway that drops downward.
Not 3" and not 4"
What you have in the floor now is 3" which is a normal toilet drain. Some plumbers like to use a 4x3 90 for that last bend, more for making the last flange connection then for anything related to passing turds down the drain. If someone is really needing a 3" at the flange, then they might was well for Australian with a Caroma toilet that does use a 3" passageway in the bowl

This is a large opening for a toilet bowl. Made down under.

This is 3"
Not 2" or 2-1/8"
Do you have a toilet made in Australia? That is where this one came from.

Trapway sizing
TOTO, 2-1/8"
Kohler, 2-1/8"
Cadet 3, 2-1/8"
Champion, 2-3/8"
Gerber, 2-1/8"
Mansfield, 2-1/8"

Caroma, 3"

But sure, break out your floor and replace everything. I'm sure you have extra time for doing something extra that won't help, but make someone else feel better.

 

[Peach1303]

The toilet has a 2" passageway that drops downward.
Not 3" and not 4"
What you have in the floor now is 3" which is a normal toilet drain. Some plumbers like to use a 4x3 90 for that last bend, more for making the last flange connection then for anything related to passing turds down the drain. If someone is really needing a 3" at the flange, then they might was well for Australian with a Caroma toilet that does use a 3" passageway in the bowl

This is a large opening for a toilet bowl. Made down under.

This is 3"
Not 2" or 2-1/8"
Do you have a toilet made in Australia? That is where this one came from.

Trapway sizing
TOTO, 2-1/8"
Kohler, 2-1/8"
Cadet 3, 2-1/8"
Champion, 2-3/8"
Gerber, 2-1/8"
Mansfield, 2-1/8"

Caroma, 3"

But sure, break out your floor and replace everything. I'm sure you have extra time for doing something extra that won't help, but make someone else feel better.

Thank you Terry. I absolutely do not want to rip out a concrete floor for a toilet that is under utilized compared to the other two toilets in the house. Sorry, wasn’t trying to drum up more than what it was, I was just clarifying about the flange vs drain pipe damage. I appreciate the input, I’m definitely going the route of a flange that fits inside the 3” pipe.

 

[Reach4]

I’m definitely going the route of a flange that fits inside the 3” pipe.

There are more decisions and actions to be made.

 

[Terry]

There are more decisions and actions to be made.

No, not really. The inside flange, secured to concrete with anchors, ready to install after that.

 

[Reach4]

No, not really. The inside flange, secured to concrete with anchors, ready to install after that.

You are may be presuming that the ring will sit at the level of the floor on concrete, rather than recessed. OP ignored my question on that. Or maybe you see things in the photo better than I did.

And to me PushTite vs glue is a decision. If glue, stainless steel ring vs painted steel vs plastic is a decision.

 

[Peach1303]

You are may be presuming that the ring will sit at the level of the floor on concrete, rather than recessed. OP ignored my question on that. Or maybe you see things in the photo better than I did.

And to me PushTite vs glue is a decision. If glue, stainless steel ring vs painted steel vs plastic is a decision.

Wasn’t ignoring, I just didn’t see that post, my apologies. The plastic that you see is level with the current floor. The previous flange that I cut the edges off of sat on top of the tile. The concrete looks depressed due to whoever poured it did not do a very tidy job of troweling it and left it extremely rough. That part will be smoothed out to try and hinder future problems with wobbling. It used to have tile, I removed the tile and stained the concrete so now it’s only on a concrete floor.

 

[Peach1303]

Question with the toilet. What size/kind of wax ring is best suited for this?

thanks

 

[Reach4]

Question with the toilet. What size/kind of wax ring is best suited for this?

I can't see what you are pointing to. Best suited to be used with what? Did you get a flange?

 

[Peach1303]

I can't see what you are pointing to. Best suited to be used with what?

sorry, with the 3” flange. Is a standard wax ring OK for that?