2 Houses, 2 Pressure Tanks, 1 pump, 1 controller, 1 pressure switch pro help needed!

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog. Water is life.' started by betaman, May 2, 2008.

  1. Tuckert

    Tuckert New Member

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    Jan 19, 2021
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    Kasilof Alaska
    Ok here’s my setup and not sure how to fix?
    Pitiless is 10ft down goes to tee underground one leg goes to shop and is cap off other to house with pressure tank and controller.
    How can I hook the existing waterline to the shop up to use for bathroom (toilet and sink)?
     
  2. Bannerman

    Bannerman Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Is the existing waterline capped inside the shop or underground? Assuming the only check-valve is located at the submersible pump where it should be, un-capping /reconnecting the line to the shop will provide water to the shop.

    If you are considering a CSV, the CSV would need to be installed before the Tee. A CSV might possibly be located inside the well casing or buried where the Tee is located but as either is 10' down, neither may be a good option. Alternately, install a CSV in the basement before the pressure tank & switch and extend the shop line to the basement.
     
  3. Tuckert

    Tuckert New Member

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    Yes capped water line come up inside the shop where it’s capped. The line is teed at a 10 ft depth. One come up in shop other coming up under the house, house is where pump controls and pressure tank are. Of course there’s no digging anything for the ground is frozen about 4ft. I’m sure I’ll have water as soon as uncapped. Should I use another pressure tank or just try hooking straight to manifold going to hot and cold water.
     
  4. Bannerman

    Bannerman Well-Known Member

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    The pressure tank is to be located only where the pump pressure switch is located.

    All water is delivered by the pump from the well. The pressure tank's purpose is only to reduce the number of ON/Off cycles for the pump.

    Water use in the home or in the shop will cause the system pressure to lower to the pressure switch cut-in setting to cause the pump to activate to supply water to wherever it is being used. If the pump's flow capacity is greater than is being used, the excess will enter the pressure tank and the system pressure will rise to the pressure switch cut-off setting to cause the pump to shut down. As long as water continues to be used, this routine will continue to be repeated.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2021
  5. Minordetails

    Minordetails New Member

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    So I have the same set up as the original poster. One well with a submersible pump. A bladder tank and pressure switch in House #1. Planning to T into water line at the well. Without a tank in House #2, the water will run backwards, back towards the well from bladder tank in House #1, when I turn on tap in House #2. Is this a problem? Thanks for any help or advice.
     

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  6. Bannerman

    Bannerman Well-Known Member

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    What is the Pressure Control Valve shown nearby to the well?
     
  7. Minordetails

    Minordetails New Member

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    Sorry, I just copied and pasted picture that had been posted earlier on this thread. Perhaps original poster meant CSV rather than PCV? I’m wondering if this setup works and whether water flowing in both directions between tank and T, is an issue?
     

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  8. Bannerman

    Bannerman Well-Known Member

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    I wasn't certain if the PCV as shown, was to act as a check valve. If it is intended to depict a CSV, that also would not work since a CSV will need to be located after the pump but before the T feeding each house as shown in the drawing in post #9.

    If there is no check valve in the line between the homes, then water will flow to wherever needed from the pressure tank initially until the pump is activated whereby the pump will supply water to where it is needed.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2021
  9. Minordetails

    Minordetails New Member

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    Thanks, that makes sense. Is the CSV necessary ?
     
  10. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    The CSV is only necessary if you want your system to work flawlessly and last a long time. Two old people in a house with no irrigation or heat pump are not going to cycle their pump very much anyway. Their only advantages for using a CSV would be the ability to use a smaller and less expensive pressure tank and having strong constant pressure in the shower instead of fluctuating pressure as with just a 40 to 60 switch.

    The more water is used like for irrigation, additional houses, or lots of people in one house the more important a CSV becomes. Same benefits as above but also makes the pump last many times longer by eliminating all the on/off cycles of a heavily used water system.

    Just put the CSV1A before that first tee instead of after where you labeled the "pressure control valve" and it will work as you describe but even better with the CSV.
     
  11. Minordetails

    Minordetails New Member

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    Great, thanks
     
  12. Minordetails

    Minordetails New Member

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    Thanks for the advice. Another question, Is there a way to put an additional pressure tank/holding tank in the new house that fills when pressure drops in the entire system, but tank would only supply the new house? It would eliminate water running back forth through the line and also reduce the number of times the pump turns on and off.
     
  13. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Is that actually what you meant? What is your thinking?
     
  14. Minordetails

    Minordetails New Member

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    Is this system, can I put a pressure tank in the new house that is not activated by a pressure switch in the new house? The pressure tank fills in the new house when the pressure switch in the old house opens. The pressure tank in the new house would only supply the new house and this would eliminate water running backwards through the line.
     

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  15. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, but probably not if you use a CSV.
    Switches, unlike valves, are said to be "closed" when they are on, but I understood what you meant.
    Yes. It would be fed via a check valve (one-way valve).
     
  16. Minordetails

    Minordetails New Member

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    Ok, so I turn the tap on in the new house, and it drains the pressure tank in the new house. If there is a check valve between the tank and the well, will the pressure then drop on the other side of the check valve, and turn on the pump?
     
  17. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Yes.
     
  18. Minordetails

    Minordetails New Member

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    Thanks, I’m learning. I didn’t realize that pressure stays the same on both sides of a check valve
     
  19. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    There is a drop due to the spring on the check valve. That might be 1 or 2 psi. You would set the air precharge maybe 2 psi below the lowest pressure that you see at the pressure tank. That would compensate for both the forward pressure drop on the check valve, and the altitude difference.

    If you are into electronics, a check valve is analogous to a diode. A real silicon diode has a forward drop of about 0.6 volts.
     
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  20. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

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    This thread has gone off on a tangent and the original advise totally ignored. As @valveman mentioned below, two tanks will fill at different rates.

    The tanks need to both be near the pressure switch to not "equalize". When far apart with friction loss through long lines and check valves, the pump will shut off when the closest tank is full but the water will then flow out of the first tank to the second tank, dropping the pressure seen at the pressure switch, which then would cause the pump to come on sooner.

     
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