Municipal Water Pump and Tank Advice

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NEport_storm

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Hi, looking for suggestions/confirmation on what will work in my situation as we have to replace our existing pump and 44G tank on municipal water that the town acknowledges has insufficient infrastructure in my very localized area. We are one of the last homes on the water line at the top of a hill coupled with poor municipal infrastructure. I bypassed the tank and pump and measured 3.7 GPM coming in from the town at the hose bib closest to the meter @ around 40 PSI, but based on usage in the area it has been lower and it fluctuates during the day, especially around peak demand times and when hot.

Been in the house for 15 years an had little to no knowledge of what the setup was or how it worked, I just thought that this was the best it could be based on what the town said. In essence, we have never been able to shower for more than 10 mins before the pump cuts on, but by then the pressure is so low and the pump/tank are not able to get the pressure back to a usable PSI without turning off all water fixtures/shower. I believe the pressure switch is at 20/40 and pump takes 3:30 - 5 minutes to repressurize the tank with all fixtures off.

Current pump is a very old (30+ years) Burks 5HJS (can't find much info on it besides 1/2 HP) and pressure switch is not cutting on at the set cut in anymore, tank is very old (25+ years) Xtrol 44G and pressure rises slowly in it even after the pump turns off.

We have a 1900 sq/ft house with 2.5 bathrooms, 4 people including two teenagers (wife and youngest shower in the evening, the oldest and I shower in the mornings).

Would the following work?

Amtrol WX-250 44G pressure tank
Goulds J5S pump w/ 30/50 pressure switch

I read that the drawdown should be 1.5x the pump GPM if the pump is rated over 10 GPM, which the Goulds (16.5GPM) is, and the tank drawndown at 30/50 is ~ 15 gallons, but with the GPM/pressure that is being delivered by the town I figured the pump will get more than 1 minute of runtime each cut in, is that a fair assumption?

I also liked that the Goulds was rated for continuous use since I anticipate it needing longer to repressurize the tank than most other people's use cases.

Thank you in advance for any/all advice, I am a novice and in my area in general this is an unusual situation so the local plumbers are not as familiar with pressure tanks and jet pumps since they deal with the 99% of everyone else on city water with good pressure.
 

Fitter30

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Reach4

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F&W CJ103051AB 1/2 HP single stage booster also looks interesting. I am thinking a non-jet pump may be quieter, and efficient.

https://www.zoro.com/flint-walling-...ressure-cj103051ab/i/G8834402/#specifications When it says pressure in the tables, that is the pressure above the input pressure. Use the 5 ft lift row in the table on page 5.

https://flintandwalling.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/02/130441-CJ101-CJ103-Instructions.pdf has performance tables. Page 3 has a diagram of a typical installation at the top. Even if you use the jet pump, that diagram could be useful.
 

NEport_storm

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Wx250 with 30/50 pressure switch down draw 13.6 gallons, with 40/60 11.8 gallons. Gould J5S pump is made for negative suction pressure at 5' of lift 50 lbs of pressure rated for 5 gpm. Need to look into a booster pump and a cycle stop valve.
Would it need to be a pump rated for continuous use if used in conjunction with a cycle stop valve? Hmm, the J5S instruction manual has city water booster installation instructions. Thank you.
 

Valveman

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The J5SH will build a lot more pressure than the J5S. "Rated for continuous duty" means it is a well built motor. Not made for continuous duty just means cheaply constructed. With a CSV the pump will only run continuously if you are using water continuously.
Shallow Well Pump with PK1A.png
 
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