1957 plumbing

[TheGewp]

Should i even try to tackle this? I have no experience with cast iron, and i assume that 2" santee on the main stack should be a 3" minimum at this point? From what i can tell the laundry room was added long after and only has a 1.5" drain for a sink and washer, and the kitchen was "upgraded" to a 2", but reduces to a 1.5 at the horizontal connection. Both backup into the bathtub occasionally.

 

[Kreemoweet]

If you have backups, you have a blocked drain somewhere, which should be fixed. Somewhat undersized pipes
(by current standards) do not cause backups, unless the steel drain pipes are clogged with rust (quite likely).
Replacing the steel with plastic would be a nice weekend project for many DIY'ers.
The more pressing problem would be the galvanized supply
piping. It's long past it's expected service life, and failures there can be very messy and expensive.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[TheGewp]

I agree 100% on the supply. This is my sister's house and i have told her that needs to be done ASAP. I repiped my house with pex a couple years ago so i'm familiar with that process. The drains i am not as sure about. What are the chances that galvanized pipe will unscrew from the iron tee on the main stack? Should i plan on replacing the whole vertical stack?

 

[Jadnashua]

The galvanized might unscrew, but might crush in the process...you won't really know until you try it.

 

[TheGewp]

OK, i'll prepare for both scenarios.

Is the rest of it correct? If i were to replace with ABS? I know the horizontal santees need to be combos, can the lav connect under the shower like that or should i add another combo for the lav on the horizontal? If i need to replace the iron stack, Can i match the current config with ABS and just use a 4x3x4 santee for the horizontal? I'll resize the washer line to 2" as well. Thanks!

 

[Mmac]

Replace all with ABS as stated above. Do not touch the 4” cast iron stack! Use a grinder and cut the hub off the cast iron 4x2 combo and use a speciality 2” cast iron x 2” abs/plastic band coupling. Grind a small flat spot on the bottom of the 2” cast iron combo sweep to create a proper seal with the rubber speciality coupling. Grind the 2” galv waste line as high as possible and re connect to ABS with a specialty band coupling. If lav does not drain well, use a hand snake to clear the now much smaller run. Cut the old P-trap and connect to ABS, also with the proper specialty coupling to match waste existing piping.

 

[TheGewp]

Replace all with ABS as stated above. Do not touch the 4” cast iron stack! Use a grinder and cut the hub off the cast iron 4x2 combo and use a speciality 2” cast iron x 2” abs/plastic band coupling. Grind a small flat spot on the bottom of the 2” cast iron combo sweep to create a proper seal with the rubber speciality coupling. Grind the 2” galv waste line as high as possible and re connect to ABS with a specialty band coupling. If lav does not drain well, use a hand snake to clear the now much smaller run. Cut the old P-trap and connect to ABS, also with the proper specialty coupling to match waste existing piping.

I'm hoping it comes out clean, if not my backup is to try to tap it. If that doesn't work, then i'll go the grinding route. If i end up grinding it, can i get away with just removing the lip of the hub and attaching a 3" ABS? Or should i just stick with 2"? Thanks for the help!

 

[Reach4]

I'm hoping it comes out clean, if not my backup is to try to tap it.

You hope to tap a thread the cast iron? I don't see that as a good idea. Maybe you mean you will try to tap in a rubber "donut". That is the prime idea.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/replace-lead-shower-drain.84962/#post-611007
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/replace-lead-shower-drain.84962/

 

[TheGewp]

You hope to tap a thread the cast iron? I don't see that as a good idea. Maybe you mean you will try to tap in a rubber "donut". That is the prime idea.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/replace-lead-shower-drain.84962/#post-611007
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/replace-lead-shower-drain.84962/

I'm assuming (perhaps incorrectly) that this connection is threaded.

If the galvanized crumbles, i'm hoping to use a tap to clean it out. If it's not threaded, Then i'm hoping something like this will work.

If that doesnt work, i'll resort to the grinding solution. Am I way off?

 

[James Henry]

Do not cut anything on the hub or you'll be sorry. The galv pipe is most likely leaded in. Remove it and use a donut. If you cut that hub off it will never seal because of the bend.

 

[TheGewp]

Do not cut anything on the hub or you'll be sorry. The galv pipe is most likely leaded in. Remove it and use a donut. If you cut that hub off it will never seal because of the bend.

Sounds good, i'll leave the hub alone. Thanks!

 

[James Henry]

Cut the galvanized pipe flush to the hub with a sawzall, drill out most of the lead then put the blade of the sawzall in the opening of the fitting hub and cut the galvanized pipe into quarter sections, stuff a rag in the hole so you don't drop any pieces down the drain and remove the sections piece by piece. then do what ever works to remove the lead and oakum. after the hub is clean apply some duck butter inside the hub and around the outside of the doughnut and insert. apply some duck butter on the end of the new pipe you're going to insert in the doughnut. Done, not that hard.

 

[Reach4]

Seems to me that cutting the galvanized flush makes for the easiest drilling of the lead. However a long drill bit could let you drill lead, and leave a handle of galvanized to wiggle. However those guys have done it; I have not.

 

[James Henry]

Seems to me that cutting the galvanized flush makes for the easiest drilling of the lead. However a long drill bit could let you drill lead, and leave a handle of galvanized to wiggle. However those guys have done it; I have not.

After the pipe is cut into sections a hammer and a small cold chisel will suffice. Theirs a hundred ways to skin a cat.

 

[Reach4]

After the pipe is cut into sections a hammer and a small cold chisel will suffice. Theirs a hundred ways to skin a cat.

You are right. If TheGewp does not have practice with a reciprocating saw, could he damage the cast iron trying to section the galvanized?

 

[James Henry]

He's gonna get practice when he cuts all that mess out. Should ask him.

 

[TheGewp]

He's gonna get practice when he cuts all that mess out. Should ask him.

I'm plenty handy with a sawzall.

One other thing i thought of, do i need to support the galvanized vents after cutting the drain away or should they be anchored in the wall/attic? I have 2 to deal with, the shower (in the picture) and the lav. I thought about replacing them too if they aren't attached and they are straight runs. Just drop the new pipe down through the roof and reboot them.

 

[James Henry]

I'm plenty handy with a sawzall.

One other thing i thought of, do i need to support the galvanized vents after cutting the drain away or should they be anchored in the wall/attic? I have 2 to deal with, the shower (in the picture) and the lav. I thought about replacing them too if they aren't attached and they are straight runs. Just drop the new pipe down through the roof and reboot them.

https://www.grainger.com/product/4H...!?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=175663197

their is probably one of these at the base of the vent sitting on the bottom plate of the wall. But to be 100% sure you could attach one of these clamps to the pipe and in between the joists. nail 2, 2" x 4"s on edge, in between the joists up against the vent pipe where the vent goes through the floor and set the arms of the clamp on the 2" x 4"s and tighten the clamp around the vent pipe. It's harder to explain than to do.

 

[James Henry]

One thing Reach said has me second guessing myself. You probably should cut the pipe an inch or so away from the face of the hub so you can get your fingers on the pipe.