Installing toilet flange

[Mike Kovach]

I cut the four inch PVC down to where the toilet flange would be at finished floor level but it won’t go down into the pipe. It only goes in about 5/8”. I was thinking of cutting it down to where inserting about that far would leave me at finished floor level and epoxing it in for strength. Is that an acceptable way to do it is my question?

 

[Terry]

I think I see a seam there about 5/8" from the top.
Is that an elbow that was cut short?

PVC and ABS fittings need the glue on the pipe and the hub for it to push in. They don't fit in dry.
Are you sure your toilet bowl will fit over the height of the flange there? They also make those with a stainless ring which is thinner.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Helper Dave]

Unless your bend is sitting high up towards the floor, and I don't see it in the pictures, there's no reason to have to cut the flange.

Prime and glue both parts, and jam it in there. If it's a real tight fit, sometimes you gotta stomp on it, even.

 

[Terry]

I think I see a seam there about 5/8" from the top.
Is that an elbow that was cut short?

On 3" you need 1.5" without a curve or bend for the pipe or fitting to work.

 

[Mike Kovach]

I think I see a seam there about 5/8" from the top.
Is that an elbow that was cut short?

PVC and ABS fittings need the glue on the pipe and the hub for it to push in. They don't fit in dry.
Are you sure your toilet bowl will fit over the height of the flange there? They also make those with a stainless ring which is thinner.

I have a stub out-4” PVC coming out of the floor that I cut off and there’s no bend in it up at the top-that might be a couple pencil marks I made that you see. I didn’t explain what I did very well. I cut off a couple inches of the pipe, which you see in the picture, that was coming out of the floor because I thought that was how much was needed for the toilet flange to be installed to the finished floor height. That flange is just pushed in but not glued. I found out it wouldn’t go very far on after I cut off the two inches. Hence this post. I thought maybe I’d cut it down again but knowing it would only go on about 5/8”, I thought about epoxying it in to reinforce it. Now that I know they can be forced in, even stomped on, I’ll take that into account and proceed. I guess this is why they call a plumber. Thanks for being there you guys.

 

[Reach4]

I am not a plumber. I would not glue an all PVC toilet flange. Might as well pay the extra for one with a stainless steel ring.

There are alternatives to glue-in flanges, that are especially good for those without much practice at getting gluing correct the first time. Ideally the flange will sit on top of the finished floor, but avoid having to drill porcelain-- that is hard.

Sioux Chief 887-GPM Push Tite has a stainless steel ring, and is a well-regarded brand.

Genova Products 75158S Universal Closet Flange with Stainless Steel Ring, 4" similar to PushTite but bigger gasket-- not so important with a nice surface like you have.


Oatey 436512 is all PVC, but is inside compression. So if the pvc ring failed (unlikely), the unit could be replaced more easily.

The Oatey 436532 is made of cast iron, and is described as being made to go into cast iron. I don't know why it would not go into 4 inch PVC, unless it needs the roughness of cast iron to grip.