wwhitney
In the Trades
Let me know if it works, definitely harder with 6" than 1-1/2". You'd probably have to do it in 2" or 3" lifts.That's not a bad idea at all.
Cheers, Wayne
Let me know if it works, definitely harder with 6" than 1-1/2". You'd probably have to do it in 2" or 3" lifts.That's not a bad idea at all.
Code where I am requires a vacuum relief valve on a bottom fed water heater. You should check into that.
Vacuum relief on an attic-mounted WH makes sense to me.
MTy, will the WH travel to the attic upright, or will it be tilted up upon arrival?
1. Could pan be put in place while the WH is at 45 degrees on the dolly?Taken up on an appliance dolly so 45ish degree angle. Unit is not supposed to be laid flat.
1. Could pan be put in place while the WH is at 45 degrees on the dolly?
2. Could the WH be placed in the pan, and the whole thing wheeled up already together?
I was wondering what the keep-upright rules might be.
Many refrigerator-type things, such as refrigerators, are not supposed to be put on their side, but if they are, they are supposed to sit upright for a day or two to let the refrigerant settle back down before powering the units.
Yes. I don't have a vacuum relief, but my WH is in the basement.Am I correct in my understanding that the vac relief valve does not need to be higher than the heater itself but just higher than the in/outlets?
That may depend on the installation instructions for your particular vacuum relief valve (although obviously the physics does not). For example, the Watts LFN36 says "Install No. LFN36 in cold water supply line with or above the highest point in the tank"Am I correct in my understanding that the vac relief valve does not need to be higher than the heater itself but just higher than the in/outlets?
I think it would be fair to say that the tank is below the compressor section. The T&P valve is going to be near the top of the tank.LFN36 in cold water supply line with or above the highest point in the tank"
Last Q for now. How do you pros get the thing into drain pans? Code requires a 6 inches walled one. I think building a ramp or s series of platforms the thing can be rocked onto. I'll have help but not enough for a dead lift.
If you have enough muscle to tip it on an edge, you could slide a 2x4 (or thicker if necessary) under one side, then screw the 2x4 down. Then you could tip the other edge up and slip in another 2x4, a bit farther under. Then slide the pan edge under it and put a 2x4 inside the pan under the edge of the water heater. Then maybe twirl the water heater around into the pan?
That may depend on the installation instructions for your particular vacuum relief valve (although obviously the physics does not). For example, the Watts LFN36 says "Install No. LFN36 in cold water supply line with or above the highest point in the tank"
Cheers, Wayne
I installed the Watts vac relief valve on mine and just followed their diagram.Right most tanks are top fed so physics wise in order to get it high enough it would have to be above the tank.
However as Reach mentioned, my heater has a compressor on top. So I think I should be ok to get it above the tank but shouldn't have to make taller than the unit. That's more what I was getting at.
Since it is low pressure and a tiny leak is not going to be a problem, I would think pipe dope would be optional.1. Condensate line- does the pvc need any dope (mine is rated for plastic) where it screws into the condensate drain hole of the heater?
Yes, you can combine before the trap. You should go through an air gap into the standpipe.2. Can I tie my 3/4 condensate line into my 3/4 furnace condensate line before the trap? Or do I need to tie it in further down stream when it becomes 1inch and add a new trap?
Potential leaking should be slow and low volume, since it will not be pressurized with the valve off. If you find a leak, turn off the valve, and open a downstairs hot faucet. That should drain water from higher pipes.3. When I go to test my hot lines for leaks tonight will the water stop flowing from the heater through those lines if I close the ball valve on the cold line?
Probably hook a garden hose to the drain just to be on the safe side.1) Why not use pipe dope?
2) Where does the furnace condensate go, and does it have a neutralizer? I'm liking the idea of connecting after the trap, but I don't know if that's required. Certainly connect after the neutralizer.
3) If you don't have a shutoff on the hot side of the tank, you certainly could get drainage through an open hot pipe below the heater. Or you might get lucky and it's air locked and it doesn't run out. [Not sure how the vacuum breaker affects that, perhaps it guarantees it will drain?] I think you need to be prepared to drain the tank to below the hot water outlet level.
Cheers, Wayne
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