I was able to snag a 65 Gallon Rheem Hybrid heater for $400 off. It is being delivered in a couple of days. I taught myself to sweat copper when doing my master bath reno but because I've never installed a water heater I want to make sure I am doing things right and there isn't something I am overlooking.
1. Below is my plan for running the lines to the heater. My cold and hot come out of the attic floor and connect into the top of the current heater. I plan to use a mixing valve so I can set my heater temp at 140 and temper to 120.
I have decided not to add an expansion tank at this time, despite it being in my drawing. It is not required by code for open systems, as in my case and it is another failure point. I will install a shutoff ball valve on the cold side and leave enough space so one can be installed in the future, if needed.
That being said are their any issues with my plan so far?
2. The instructions call for a minimum 6 inch heat trap. Based on my understanding from reading here on how heat traps work and are designed, could the fact that my pipes drop down from my attic at least 6 feet before any branches serve as a "built-in" heat trap?
or do I need to run the pipes up from the heater intake and then back down? Does having a mixing valve in the mix (no pun intended) change things?
3. Connections to the heater: I don't know what types of connections it comes with but based on what I have read here it would be preferred to use 6-8 inch brass nipples instead of dielectric nipples and connect threaded copper that I can then sweat my 3/4 copper to. Sound right? Local code requires rigid connections so no corrugated copper.
I'll be tying the condensate drain line into the drain line for my drain pan just before it daylights for now. Sometime in the spring I'll run it to my first floor washer standpipe when I open up the wall to replace the washer shutoffs.
Anything I am missing?
1. Below is my plan for running the lines to the heater. My cold and hot come out of the attic floor and connect into the top of the current heater. I plan to use a mixing valve so I can set my heater temp at 140 and temper to 120.
I have decided not to add an expansion tank at this time, despite it being in my drawing. It is not required by code for open systems, as in my case and it is another failure point. I will install a shutoff ball valve on the cold side and leave enough space so one can be installed in the future, if needed.
That being said are their any issues with my plan so far?
2. The instructions call for a minimum 6 inch heat trap. Based on my understanding from reading here on how heat traps work and are designed, could the fact that my pipes drop down from my attic at least 6 feet before any branches serve as a "built-in" heat trap?
or do I need to run the pipes up from the heater intake and then back down? Does having a mixing valve in the mix (no pun intended) change things?
3. Connections to the heater: I don't know what types of connections it comes with but based on what I have read here it would be preferred to use 6-8 inch brass nipples instead of dielectric nipples and connect threaded copper that I can then sweat my 3/4 copper to. Sound right? Local code requires rigid connections so no corrugated copper.
I'll be tying the condensate drain line into the drain line for my drain pan just before it daylights for now. Sometime in the spring I'll run it to my first floor washer standpipe when I open up the wall to replace the washer shutoffs.
Anything I am missing?