It has been nearly two and a half years since I replaced the gas valve/thermostat and thermocouple on mine (fully reimbursed by Lowe's) and it is still running. Reports of the problem have faded away so it looks like the Unitrol/Robert Shaw gas valve manufacturing problem has been resolved. (Note that this same gas valve was on the Rheem's at the time and I saw some reports of the same problem developing with them.) Thanks to Curlysir for providing the documentation that confirmed my suspicions about the source of the problem.
If you are referring to the ""I-Con" control, it has to be the biggest POS ever made. My Bradford White dealer cannot keep enough parts on hand to handle all the warranty parts needed on a daily basis. There are four parts that can cause problems and you often have to replace them one at a time until you find the problem. Often, the supply house will not have all four, and we have to shop his other branches to get all the parts, then spend a couple of hours servicing it.
I have a "Whirlpool" FG1F4034t3NOV model, and surprise; the pilot light went out and will not stay lit. I am uncertain how old the unit is, but I know it is at least 5-6 years old. I have seen this and numerous other threads pretty much calling this make and model a piece of crap. It is in a position, as I have come to find out, where it is practically impossible to clean the lint screen to try to see if that makes a difference in regards to getting it going again unless you have it about a good 6-7 inches off the floor. Who the h*ll knew water filters had filter screens you had to keep clean to keep it working properly?
My question is: Would I be better served replacing the water heater altogether or seeing if the upgrade/repair kit is available? I've sen on a few threads it may not be available in stores anymore, and I don't know how long I want to be without hot water if they have to ship one, if it's even something they would do anymore. Any information would be most appreciated.
I can't talk my licensed plumber into replacing my 2003 FERGUSON water heater. He swears I'd be wasting money. He keeps telling me to bypass the thermofuse by putting a jumper between the two wires, but I keep refusing. But honestly, I'd really like to know what this switch does. Several people here keep saying things like "having blown up your entire neighborhood". Every other brand of water heater doesn't have this switch. If you have the gas shut off safety and a pop-off valve for pressure - like all the other water heaters - then why is this switch there and why don't the other water heaters have it?
And here's my brief experience. While mine has lasted almost 10 years, I had all the same problems within 3 years of installing it. I used the reset button and got it lit the first couple times. Now we deal with the heater set to warm - which sucks. It's the only way to keep the switch from tripping.
This is awkward, but...
It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.