No, it’s a new 1/4 turn valve. Wide open. The noise comes and goes.That's the fill valve I like for those. Does the noise come for the shutoff at the wall? Sometimes there is a loose washer that flutters there.
I like to open the valve up all the way, and then back it in a bit.
KorkyNo, it’s a new 1/4 turn valve. Wide open. The noise comes and goes.
Will the Kirby 528mp platinum work ok?
Might be worth a try! Thanks!A brainstorm idea (no experience, just thinking about what would be causing the noise):
I wonder if adding a flow restrictor to the toilet supply line would moderate the noise that the fill valve is showing under excess pressure? If you have a 3/8" compression x 7/8" ballcock supply line for the toilet, and you have enough vertical clearance, you could put something like this between the stop and the supply line:
https://www.conservationwarehouse.com/supplylineadapter15gpm.html
They come in various ratings, I figured 1.5 gpm would still let a modern toilet refill sufficiently quickly. That site also carries a 1.8 gpm version.
Cheers, Wayne
And a pressure gauge is not worth a try?Might be worth a try! Thanks!
I can’t change the City pressure. My house doesn’t have a pressure regulator.And a pressure gauge is not worth a try?
Right, but if the city is giving you 90 psi, say, then the correct solution is to install a whole house pressure regulator, rather than modifying the toilet.I can’t change the City pressure. My house doesn’t have a pressure regulator.
Can a pressure regulator be installed outside, below ground?Right, but if the city is giving you 90 psi, say, then the correct solution is to install a whole house pressure regulator, rather than modifying the toilet.
Cheers, Wayne
SOmetimes...depends on whether you can put it in a place where it's not likely to freeze. If you add a PRV, you also should add an expansion tank or you'll likely start to cause the T&P valve on the WH to open when it's heating water.Can a pressure regulator be installed outside, below ground?