Hi. We have had the occasional brown water for years. We've gotten a new soft water system (since old one was non-digital and didn't know what's going on). Well water test kit says we're ok. Lately, tested the brownish water with iron-out chemical (to see that it's not tannins) and it cleared it. Sometimes there's sulfur smell when it's brownish. I tried magnet on filters (100micron, 50micron and 5micron) and it doesn't seem to pickup any brown stuff.
Checked with a local well service company who has great reviews, to check well since it's at least 10 years no maintenance. They suggested to have water test done first. They also helped over the phone for free troubleshoot with electrical, which makes company seem trustworthy.
Can't find any decent water testing lab that's not also selling water treatment. Price ranges a lot and reviews from people ranges a lot. Township has no "official" testing center. Was going to do the shock treatment with bleach since it's hasn't been done in 10 years. Wanted to see if we should do that to see if it makes any difference.
Still very confused as to steps, so in the mean time, tried these:
When it was brownish, I eliminated the soft water system (since I read that maybe while it's regenerating, it doesn't have enough time to flush).
I used the Hach total iron test and it shows .6ppm, when water got "clear", it was 0 to less than .15ppm
I cycled through a few times with well tank to try to get new water. Sometimes water is brownish mostly not. Whether I let it settle for a few minutes before turning faucet on or not. I was trying to see what can rust out in the system. We have copper pipes and the WellxTrol is Wx203 and should be stainless or polyproprolene(?) so the route would be from well to tank to 15ft of pipes then faucet. What else is iron in the water system?
Then I decided to rule out the copper pipes and try to flush from tank faucet. At first, it was sometimes brownish sometimes not.
When it's not, it was 0 to less than .15ppm.
I then Let it drain as much as it can and 0 pressure (power off). Turn it on and it was more brownish. It even had visible iron rust particles (magnet test).
When it was brownish test showed 1ppm. Let it cycle a few times to get new water and tried draining tank a couple times. When it was more brownish, test shows .6ppm and have been more continuous more brown for a few cycles. I let it go through the filter system and it was less brownish.
I then removed from bypass and writing this now.
"Iron-out" test on brown, brownish waters clears the water, so def iron.
Obviously I would still need to water test, but what I was wanting to find out is if the well pump or casing is damaged, then regardless of the test, it still needs to be repaired right? If it passes, then at least it's out of the equation, and we can just go through water solution maybe manganese and iron filter. If that's the case, I should hold off on shocking until finally somebody can finally come out and check? I might have to go with 2nd choice if 1st choice still don't want to do maintenance on well.
Checked with a local well service company who has great reviews, to check well since it's at least 10 years no maintenance. They suggested to have water test done first. They also helped over the phone for free troubleshoot with electrical, which makes company seem trustworthy.
Can't find any decent water testing lab that's not also selling water treatment. Price ranges a lot and reviews from people ranges a lot. Township has no "official" testing center. Was going to do the shock treatment with bleach since it's hasn't been done in 10 years. Wanted to see if we should do that to see if it makes any difference.
Still very confused as to steps, so in the mean time, tried these:
When it was brownish, I eliminated the soft water system (since I read that maybe while it's regenerating, it doesn't have enough time to flush).
I used the Hach total iron test and it shows .6ppm, when water got "clear", it was 0 to less than .15ppm
I cycled through a few times with well tank to try to get new water. Sometimes water is brownish mostly not. Whether I let it settle for a few minutes before turning faucet on or not. I was trying to see what can rust out in the system. We have copper pipes and the WellxTrol is Wx203 and should be stainless or polyproprolene(?) so the route would be from well to tank to 15ft of pipes then faucet. What else is iron in the water system?
Then I decided to rule out the copper pipes and try to flush from tank faucet. At first, it was sometimes brownish sometimes not.
When it's not, it was 0 to less than .15ppm.
I then Let it drain as much as it can and 0 pressure (power off). Turn it on and it was more brownish. It even had visible iron rust particles (magnet test).
When it was brownish test showed 1ppm. Let it cycle a few times to get new water and tried draining tank a couple times. When it was more brownish, test shows .6ppm and have been more continuous more brown for a few cycles. I let it go through the filter system and it was less brownish.
I then removed from bypass and writing this now.
"Iron-out" test on brown, brownish waters clears the water, so def iron.
Obviously I would still need to water test, but what I was wanting to find out is if the well pump or casing is damaged, then regardless of the test, it still needs to be repaired right? If it passes, then at least it's out of the equation, and we can just go through water solution maybe manganese and iron filter. If that's the case, I should hold off on shocking until finally somebody can finally come out and check? I might have to go with 2nd choice if 1st choice still don't want to do maintenance on well.
