Unknown Resin and Filter Media replacement questions

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Ravens135

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Hey all. I have a softener system that came with the home I purchased 4 years ago. I am unsure of the systems age, but it is atleast 15 years old according to tank mfg dates. Looking for some info on replacing unknown resin media and filter media.

Suspect it may be time due to slightly brown water and perceived age. Assuming something is fouled, but I'm guessing troubleshooting may be futile with aged resin/media. I believe all of the systems are functioning as I'm using up salt, chlorine, regenning ok.

System is fed by well water. Moderate Iron of .44 mg/l and Manganese of only .02 mg/l. Hardness of 285 mg/l. PH of 7.2. However, these are lab tests at the well from 2001, so I'm making assumptions these haven't changed.

The system is 32k and consists of a contact tank, chlorine injection pump/tank, 9x48 filter media with Fleck 5600 mech head (believe is carbon), and a 9x48 resin tank with Fleck 5600 mech with Brine injection.

My issue is that I've noticed that when filling a large bath tub or a large pitcher, the water seems to have a brownish hue. We are drinking the water after a fridge filter, so some concern here.

Both the resin tank and the filter tank have mfg dates of 2011, so I will base this date as the last assumed change of the media since I have no prior owner documentation. Both tanks look about half full. Should I change both the resin and filter media due to age/assumed underperformance?

If agreed that I should change the resin, I have no clue on the current resin details. What crosslinkage would a system like mine need?

If I should change the filter media, is there any way to tell what is currently in the system other than removing the valve and eyeballing? Is there a different recommended replacement media, or best to stick with whatever is in there (likely carbon)?
 

Reach4

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I would get some low range chlorine test strips, and test the chlorine level before and after the carbon.

I would get a Hach 5-B test kit and measure the hardness before and after the softener.

Is your injection before the pressure tank?

I would flush the pressure tank anyway.
================================
Precharged Pressure tank flush:
1. Connect a hose to the sediment drain valve, and run that to where you plan to drain the water. I suggest filtering the output through a cloth if you suspect the sediment may include sand.
2. Turn off the pump.
3. Open the drain valve, and let it drain until the water stops. It would be possibly interesting to watch the first water that comes out.
4. Close the valve, and turn the pump back on, and let pressure build.
5. Repeat steps 2, 3 and 4 as needed.
==========================

The carbon is likely needing replacement.

The resin might be rejuvenated by a treatment with Iron Out Powder if there has not been a lot of chlorine leakage.

I would sanitize your well and plumbing. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my sanitizing write-up.

What do you use for chlorine?
 

Ravens135

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Thanks for the quick response Reach4. I'll look into the test strips/kits.

I believe the injection is after the pressure tank. The chlorine is fed into the bottom of the contact tank constantly whenever the water in the house is running via a stenner pump.

Thanks for pressure tank flush recommendation. I use this spout to get untreated water for watering plants, so maybe use a gallon or 2 every week or so. Guessing that is not a sufficient enough flush?

Also appreciate the sanitization write up
 

Reach4

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I believe the injection is after the pressure tank. The chlorine is fed into the bottom of the contact tank constantly whenever the water in the house is running via a stenner pump.
Nice. Keep an extra tube on hand.

Do you have a blow off valve to let you drain sediment from the contact tank? You will want to do that.

 

Ravens135

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Nice. Keep an extra tube on hand.

Do you have a blow off valve to let you drain sediment from the contact tank? You will want to do that.
Yes, I open the blowoff once a month 1/4 turn for 60 seconds as the prior owner instructed.

I've replaced the stenner feed tubes and cleaned out the salt tank. That was all the company that serviced the system prior to my purchase seemed to be doing, so they basically told me to do it myself. I'm fine with learning, building skills and saving some money to boot....
 

Reach4

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Yes, I open the blowoff once a month 1/4 turn for 60 seconds as the prior owner instructed.

Nice. Do you get a lot of sediment when you do that? What color?

One more thing. If you get brown water, put it into a glass jar and let it sit undisturbed. Does the color settle -- hour/day/week?

I would consider a 4.5x20 cartridge filter after the softener. I like the Fleck DGD-5005-20 polypropylene spun 50-5 or DGD-2501-20 cartridges.
 
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Ravens135

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Missed the question on chlorine.

I was told to use standard bleach diluted 1gal to 15 gallons water.

I've recently switched over to pool chlorine, so have halved the dosage.
 

Ravens135

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Nice. Do you get a lot of sediment when you do that? What color?

One more thing. If you get brown water, put it into a glass jar and let it sit undisturbed. Does the color settle -- hour/day/week?

I would consider a 4.5x20 cartridge filter after the softener. I like the Fleck DGD-5005-20 polypropylene spun 50-5 or DGD-2501-20 cartridges.
The blow down feeds out of the tank through pvc and into septic drain, so I'm quit blind to what is coming out.

I'll try the test with letting the water sit undisturbed and report back

What would the cartridge filter purpose be? To catch anything introduced after the resin filter tank, since it is post carbon filter?

Ive been mulling installing an RO system for drinking water in the kitchen. Would having this additional filter in place make installing a RO system pointless given my setup? Apologies for all of the questions.
 
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Reach4

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What would the cartridge filter purpose be? To catch anything introduced after the resin filter tank, since it is post carbon filter?
Catch carbon particles, broken softener beads, and anything else that got thru the earlier stages.

https://www.cleanwaterstore.com/resource/frequently-asked-questions/about-carbon-backwash-filters/ says "Sediment down to 30 microns in size is also removed by mechanical filtration."

Ive been mulling installing an RO system for drinking water in the kitchen. Would having this additional filter in place make installing a RO system pointless given my setup? Apologies for all of the questions.
I am not expert on this. An RO filter has a cartridge filter at the front end, but it is small. If you are seeing stuff, and if it settles out at all, I am thinking that a cartridge filter before the RO would not be a waste.

If your brown does not settle out at all, it could be tannins.
 
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