Well specs best guess question

[RonL2]

Back in 85 I remember the well driller saying g they hit water at 40 feet. I just found the bill receipt.. it says depth 65 ft, casing 40 ft. 35 gpm. 6 inch . And that's all I have. Being they said they hit at 40 and put in 40 feet of casing, drilled to 65. I'm assuming my pump is sitting at roughly 60 feet. With at least 20 feet of water over it. Is that a reasonable assumption to start with ? Or is the static level usually up inside the casing ? I wish there was a way to get the static level without opening the well up.

 

[WorthFlorida]

The casing may have only went to 40 feet because they hit bedrock, then just drilled through the rock until they hit a pocket of water. Hydrostatic pressure can bring the water level up to any level. What is the reason to know the depth?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

It is not common to have a pump sitting at only 5 feet from the bottom of a drilled well.

Do you know the make and model of submersible pump? It is possible to take some inference from the current, but maybe the difference would be too subtle to get a good inference.

Since your well is not that deep, knowing the static level is probably not that important. Just curious?

 

[RonL2]

My pump is just getting some age on it. And I am obsessing on getting a good replacement. And knowing the specs of your well is pretty essential. I can probably just go with one just like I have now...I have a Myers preditor 8gpm (2st52-8) pretty sure it has a franklin motor. (From paperwork) it's been down there 20 years now, running my open loop geothermal... thousands apon thousands of gallons who knows how many cycles. So I would like to be prepared for when it does go. With a standby.. but now I know if I buy one I need to store it in a bucket of water.. so it doesnt dry out. It's to bad you cant buy a good pump nowadays that will last.

 

[Bannerman]

With a standby.. but now I know if I buy one I need to store it in a bucket of water..

Since you are going to the bother and expense of obtaining a replacement pump in advance of when needed, suggest installing the new pump right away. Once the old one comes out, you can probably replace some worn components and keep that one for standby.

It is not the number of gallons that is detrimental to the lifespan of a pump, pressure switch, pressure tank etc, but is the number of cycles. Suggest installing a Cycle Stop Valve to prevent cycling while also providing constant pressure and also eliminate the need for a large pressure tank.

 

[RonL2]

Thanks, I was wondering how a csv worked. I will research my pump cycles and see if this would work for me. Currently I'm seeing my heat pump turn on, and my well kicks on only once per cycle. But it hasn't been really hot yet. So far I see a 2-3 minute on per 6-7 minute hp cycle. If it stays that way, a csv wouldnt help. Only if other water us being used at the same time. But a csv would seem to be a good answer for that type of cycling. I have an 86 gallon tank so that does help. I will price out a valve regardless as it seem a good addition. Allthough I dont see how amps used would drop. If I watch my current pump it stays constant no matter the pressure in the system, so it would seem by running longer the price paid for electricity increases.. more research is needed.

 

[Bannerman]

If it stays that way, a csv wouldnt help. Only if other water us being used at the same time.

Other water use at the same time as the heat pump only helps to reduce cycling, not causes it.

For example, if your well pump supplied 12 GPM and your HP consumed 8 GPM, then 4-GPM will be flowing into the pressure tank. With the pressure tank becoming filled and the system pressure rising to the cut-out pressure, the pump will shut off.

If you were to use that 4 GPM that is flowing into the pressure tank, then the system pressure will not rise so the cutout pressure will not be achieved so the pump will run continuously with no cycling. If you were to use 3 of those 4 gallons, then only 1 GPM will flow into the PT so it will take significantly longer for the tank to become full, allowing the pump to run longer before the cut-out pressure is achieved.

Your current 85 gallon PT will hold approx 21 gallons only. Because the PT purpose is to reduce cycling, the usually recommended PT capacity will cause the pump to operate for between 60-120 seconds after there is no further water use.

Of course with both examples, the 21-gallons will be depleted quickly from the PT so the pump will activate fairly rapidly again after shut-off.

If your well pump is not cycling while only the HP is operating, that would signify the HP is consuming 100% of the well pump's capacity, leading to the question if the well pump is actually supplying sufficient flow to the HP, particularly while there is other water use occurring at the same time the HP is operating.

I dont see how amps used would drop.

Much of the time, the full GPM capacity for the pump will not be needed so a CSV will reduce the flow from the pump to match the actual flow rate needed. If your pump can deliver 12 GPM but you are only using 3 GPM for a shower, then you really don't need the remaining 9 GPM to fill the PT to cause the pump to cycle repeatedly for as long as water use continues.

As a simplified explanation, a 12 GPM capacity pump moving 12 GPM water will be working at full capacity and will therefore require the most electrical power. If that pump's flow rate is reduced by a CSV, although the pressure between the pump and CSV will rise, the actual quantity of water the pump is forced to move will be reduced. Since the pump will not need to move as much water, it will not need to work as hard, so it will therefore not need to consume as much electricity to maintain the same RPM.

 

[RonL2]

Certainly Something to think about. If the cost of a csv was a lot less expensive it would look more enticing. But a valve that is 200 plus, might be a bit hard to swallow. But definatly food for thought.
Thanks for the information !