Well pump questions for my CSV setup

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s10010001

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Hello, a while back I setup a CST and nice jet pump for my well setup. Thanks to folks on here, we love it, amazing setup, great pressure. However now that we have had it for a while I have some questions:

Setup:
Well Pump > 2500 Gallon Tank > Goulds JS01 Pump > CST > House


1. For RO water under our sink, I don't think its works super great. It works fine, water is good, but it never seems to get the small pressure tank full so the RO is slow to fill a glass. Im thinking my pressure is below what's needed to get the RO running efficiently most of the time. I adjusted the CST to boost the pressure to the house, but that's only when the pump is running. Can I adjust the pressure switch to flip on at 55 and off at 65? its 45/55 now. The RO calls for 50psi.


2. Smell, I know this isn't really a well pump question so much as a water question so here goes. We have a new water heater was installed in Nov and new house filters (Screen filter > 5mic sed > Carbon) back when we did the CSV around Aug2019. but were still getting some smell. Has anyone see this these Well Aeration deals? They seem to just mist water back into the top of the well... BS or NO? how does this effect the CST setup?

notes on this: I do plan on flushing the water heater ever 1-2 months (I haven't yet since I installed it in Nov). I also change my filters to the house month. We also have a salt based softener already.

3. Has anyone rigged up plugs for switching the pumps (both or just Tank>JetPump) to a generator?
 

Reach4

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Do you mean CSV?
2. Smell, I know this isn't really a well pump question so much as a water question so here goes. We have a new water heater was installed in Nov and new house filters (Screen filter > 5mic sed > Carbon) back when we did the CSV around Aug2019. but were still getting some smell. Has anyone see this these Well Aeration deals? They seem to just mist water back into the top of the well... BS or NO? how does this effect the CST setup?

Do you get an H2S (sulfur) smell from the hot water, but not the cold? If so, putting in an powered anode can help. Some just replace the anode with a brass plug, but that does not protect the WH.
 

s10010001

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Do you mean CSV?


Do you get an H2S (sulfur) smell from the hot water, but not the cold? If so, putting in an powered anode can help. Some just replace the anode with a brass plug, but that does not protect the WH.

lol yes CSV, I have too much truck stuff on my brain hehe

I have read about those powered rods, I will look into it more now thanks. Yes its form the hot water more than the cold.

A J10 S can build 74 PSI, so yes you could go to 45/65 pressure switch setting.

So I can adjust the pressure switch a bit, I would like the minimum to be 50psi for the RO. Do I need to do anything to the CST? I already cracked the bolt a little until running pressure is higher.
 

Bannerman

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For the RO, turn off the water feed valve to the RO and empty the storage tank completely.
On the tank, there will be an air valve similar to that found on a bicycle tire.
Using a low range tire pressure gauge, check the tank's air charge. The pressure should be 7 psi. If lower, the tank will be very slow to push water out to the faucet and if higher, the tank will hold less water than intended.
A bicycle pump or air compressor maybe used for adding air, but add only small amounts each time and recheck as the pressure can change rapidly.

If you find the tank does not completely empty of water initially, check the air pressure to determine if there is any air charge remaining. If some pressure remains, orientate the tank with the air valve pointed downward and press the valve centre to allow air to escape. If any water comes out with the air, then the tank's bladder is leaking and the tank will need to be replaced.

If the tank does not initially empty completely but if there is no remaining air pressure, add some air to determine if all of the water will empty. The tank will need to be completely empty of water before adjusting to the correct air pressure, but you may want to wait 1-2 hours before restoring RO operation to verify the 7 psi charge holds over that time. Also verify the air valve is not leaking.
 
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Valveman

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As Bannerman is saying, I don't think the pressure from the jet pump has anything to do with water coming from the RO system. The little RO pressure tank maybe bad or the RO pump is weak. 45/65 is about as high as you can go with the pressure switch using a J10S pump. With the switch at 45/65 you want the CSV to be holding 55 PSI steady while running a 3 GPM shower or hose.
 

Bannerman

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The RO unit will typically continue to produce water until the storage tank pressure climbs to 60% - 65% of the feed pressure at which point the RO automatic shutoff valve halts water production.

Even as the storage tank may be full with RO water, when the tank precharge is lower than ~6 psi, the flow from the tank to the faucet will be slow. 7 psi seems to be the sweet spot for acceptable flow while leaving adequate capacity within the storage tank.

RO membranes will operate most efficiently when the incoming pressure is consistantly high. To remedy a feed pressure issue, an electric booster pump is often utilized which will usually maintain ~80 psi feed pressure into the RO unit regardless of house pressure variations.

The addition of a permeate pump will provide further efficiency and performance improvements by reducing back pressure on the RO membrane.

I anticipate you will see a major improvement by adjusting the tank pre-charge. I typically add air to my RO tank about every 9 months even as I cannot identify any source of leakage.
 
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s10010001

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Ill try that for sure. Its a pretty new system I put in myself so I figured the tank was preset properly. Thanks

Ill look at those electric rods too. thanks
 
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