Well/Pump/Cistern Electro-Hydraulic System Input

[Gustave]

Beautiful view!

My purpose in asking about the cisterns being elevated and gravity flow was in consideration to the extent the well system pressure could be potentially reduced by relocating the upper cistern to the same elevation as that home.

If there ever should be a fire, I anticipate the fire dept will be unlikely to use a yard hydrant but will be more likely to use a 3-4" suction line to draw water from the cistern using a high volume pump to supply multiple 2.5" or larger lines. For rural properties where there are no fire hydrants, they will typically bring additional water in a tank truck.

The upper tank belongs to my neighbor. And his house is very near the tank, at roughly similar elevation, so I don't think he plans to move it.

Cal Fire requires a 4" line from the water tank to a type of hydrant (2-1/2" brass National Standard male thread) which must be located next to the driveway, more than 50 ft, but less than 150 ft from any structures. If the pressure at the hydrant is less than 20 psi it must be clearly labeled "draft".

 

[Gustave]

It dawned on my this morning that the "toilet float valve" concept would not work in my application. Because of the share well, I have to have communication between each tank and the well to direct the flow the appropriate tank (via ball valves in my case). Oh well.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

It dawned on my this morning that the "toilet float valve" concept would not work in my application. Because of the share well, I have to have communication between each tank and the well to direct the flow the appropriate tank (via ball valves in my case). Oh well.

Float valves, motorized ball valves, or solenoid valves will work. You just need to restrict the flow into the cisterns so there is enough water left to supply what the neighbors need. A flow control knob on the solenoid valve works very well, but you could also use a regular ball valve before the float valve or motorized ball valve.

 

[Gustave]

Float valves, motorized ball valves, or solenoid valves will work. You just need to restrict the flow into the cisterns so there is enough water left to supply what the neighbors need. A flow control knob on the solenoid valve works very well, but you could also use a regular ball valve before the float valve or motorized ball valve.

You are correct about the float valve concept. I was wrong when I said it would not work, it would. The steering is automatic, since the tank that is not calling for water will not allow any in, because its float valve is closed.

Solenoids I'm not sure about. Solenoid valves had been my original plan, but when I looked at them more carefully and spoke to a few manufacturers I started to get reservations. I did not take the time to fully understand them, but they do have a requirement for a certain pressure to get them to open (or close), I think. And with the high back pressures I am dealing with I just could not convince myself one way or the other whether a solenoid valve was the right choice. The motorized ball valve was much easier to understand.

 

[Valveman]

You should have the ability to limit how much a motorized ball valve will open. Just set the open limit to the amount you want to fill the tank, leaving some flow for the others if they open a faucet at the same time the storage tank is filling.