Water softener. Repair or replace?

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, Questions and Answers' started by Brill0724, Feb 19, 2018.

  1. Brill0724

    Brill0724 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2018
    Location:
    Ann Arbor MI
    Bought this house with an unmarked water softener system. I’ve been able to determine it’s a 32k twin tank system with a Fleck 9000 or 9100. Not sure what the difference is though. All mechanical. Bypass valve and metal parts appear to be brass. I do have the service manual but don’t know the settings, flow rate, injector size, etc.. The only date I can find on it says the timer mechanism was assembled in 2003. I’m having a problem where during the rapid rinse cycle water is coming into the brine tank thus causing the brine tank to overfill. I’m thinking about replacing the brine valve assembly and see if that fixes the problem but I hate the thought of going through this thing replacing one part at a time. It looks like the whole thing could stand to either be rebuilt or replaced. Are these things worth rebuilding or am I better off replacing it? If I replace it any recommendations on Fleck 9000/9100 mechanical or SXT? Thanks!
     
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    From troubleshooting:
    Plugged drain line flow control. Clean flow control.
    Plugged injector system. Clean injector and screen.​
     
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  4. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2012
    Occupation:
    Water systems designer, R&D, Technical Director
    Location:
    Ontario California
    Since it is a 2003 it would be time to rebuild the valve.

    The 9100 and 9000 are nearly identical except for the valve body material is plastic on the 9100. The 9000 had a tendency to dezincify in the lower piston area on the valve body center section. This is not repairable and the valve should be replaced if this has occurred.

    Are you on a municipal supply or are you on your own private well?

    You can remove the valves and do a quick inspection of the resin beds. The tanks should be about 2/3" full of resin and the resin should be solid round beads in the top section of the resin bed. Take a core sample of the top few inches. If the resin can be "smushed" between your finger and thumb this would indicate bad resin and that would have to be replaced as well.
     
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