I did not mean to imply that an expansion tank was not required. What I mean to say is that I don't know of a section of IPC 2012 that would require one. It is hard to prove a negative. But the logic that says a bypass PRV might be sufficient makes sense, as long as we ensure nobody will be taking 2:50am showers.Why do you think the code doesn't apply?
In the 2012 IPC it's 607.3. That only calls for a "device for controlling pressure," so it need not necessarily be an expansion tank.California? Sure. In Chattanooga or nearby? I suspect there is not such a requirement, but I don't have a cite.
Good points Reach 4 , I recommend the tank but I don't think its safety its more for damage possibly having 150 psi in the system, shortening the life of water heater as well. so omitting it (x tank) not the worst thing you could do and they too can fail but even adding a few more joints to the system and a tank with a limited life span.I did not mean to imply that an expansion tank was not required. What I mean to say is that I don't know of a section of IPC 2012 that would require one. It is hard to prove a negative. But the logic that says a bypass PRV might be sufficient makes sense, as long as we ensure nobody will be taking 2:50am showers.
It's moot for nesappa because he actually has an expansion tank.
I may end up pluming in another PRV, who knows at this point, and if I do I suppose I would add T's and gauges before and after. Thats how the "this old house" video showed during repair and I liked the idea, but was hoping to remedy the problem and make future plans rather than go all out on this tripA bypass in the PRV is just one more part to fail...if your incoming pressure got to 150psi, the system pressure would have to be HIGHER than that to push back out...the T&P valve would have opened probably before that. Will it work, yes, but it may never actually open and do anything, and likely costs a bit more for that feature you probably can't actually use.
If you're plumbing in a new PRV, you might consider putting in some test Ts and maybe install pressure gauges before and after the PRV.
You are sure the outdoor faucet is after the PRV?But, PSI is reading at 91 PSI at the outdoor faucet right after the PRV.
A bit disconcerting for a PRV that has a range of 25-75, and is supposed to be factory set at 50 PSI.
Yes it is definitely after the PRV.You are sure the outdoor faucet is after the PRV?
Dribble water and try to adjust the pressure down.
A garden hose is a good way to move the pressure gauge to a place that is easier to read while you adjust.
Note that replacing washers in hoses periodically can reduce the leaking that hoses often do at the connections.I will dribble and adjust as necessary.
Will likely be tomorrow at this point as I am out of time today but I wont worry too much until I can adjust it down.
Got it on the water hose makes sense.
Turn your prv down to 50. No reason for more. Pretty much ever. A sprinkler system should be separate from the prv.*Update 02/24/2022:
I have updated the connection at my expansion tank per a previous suggestion . Now we have threads so this should be secure.
I am having leaking again at night as of a couple of nights ago (not sure of specific time yet, but this time is was earlier around 12:30 AM rather than the previous 3:00 AM, weird). Surely my new PRV is not failing already, but im not sure what else it could be. I will collect some more data and if there is anyone left willing to help here I would appreciate it.
I did turn the water off at the main last night, and no leak. So this suggests pressure is getting through the PRV but maybe more data is needed idk.
I need to call the water company and see if there are any known issues before I proceed too far.
Someone mentioned before stepping down the pressure with two PRVs. This might be something to consider, but I might go ahead and call a pro because I have replaced a lot of things and they might have a better product or something.
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This is awkward, but...
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