Water heater install (CA)

Discussion in 'Water Heater Forum, Tanks' started by shopco, Oct 6, 2020.

  1. shopco

    shopco Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2014
    Location:
    Riverside, CA
    14 years I installed the water heater using copper pipe (no flex line) to dielectric unions installed on the water heater.



    When I attempted to replace the water heater the unions were welded together. They came away from the heater ok but would not disassemble as designed; I had to cut the copper pipe. Even when taking the unions to the bench vice there was no separating them. They were heavily corroded.



    I am endeavoring to prevent a repeat of this situation and want comments on my plan, which is;

    [copper pipe] to [dielectric union] to [12" neoprene hose with 316 stainless steel fittings] to [water heater].



    What I want to know is if this will eliminate the corrosion on the dielectric unions.
     
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    You want corrugated stainless or copper connector lines -- not rubber with a metal braid. Click Inbox, above.

    I don't know about whether dialectic unions would be helpful. I would guess not, but I am not sure.
     
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  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    In California they use flex connectors and earthquake straps because of the earthquakes that they have. It's that way on the entire West Coast.

    Water heaters come with dielectric nipples which work fine with flex connectors. I quiet using the unions decades ago because the close off and prevent water flow.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. shopco

    shopco Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2014
    Location:
    Riverside, CA
    Why corrugated? Not challenging; seeking knowledge
     
  6. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Doesn't degrade and put black bits into your hot water.
    Usually larger ID, which helps lower turbulence, but is that enough to overcome the corrugation? I don't know.
     
  7. shopco

    shopco Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2014
    Location:
    Riverside, CA
    Thank you Reach4 for your interest in my situation. Neoprene shedding: huh, I never thought of that.

    Research indicates excellent resistance to heat and ozone. Pressure rating is nearly 2x needed. Possible hardening over time but that should not be a problem in my case since there will be no bends . What does raise a concern is its sensitivity to chlorinated water. I have not tested our chlorine concentration, but the city reports 0.46ppm average (not that tells me anything regarding its effect on neoprene).

    As far as the flex connections you suggested, they do indeed look like high quality items however, I do not see them working in my case. There is only 12" between the 1" ball valve and the water heater. I have installed SS ¾" flex with a 360° loop as a temporary fix until I get sorted but it is causing a severe water hammer, necessitating closing down the ball valve to reduce velocity.

    P.S. hose is McMaster-Carr item No. 5291K57
     
  8. dj2

    dj2 In the Trades

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2013
    Location:
    California
    Corrugated flex is code in CA. Rigid pipes are not.
    I've been using copper corrugated connectors since 1976, which are code compliant. They come with 3/4" black washers, that easily last the life of the water heater. See Terry's picture.
    They come inn different lengths. If you go from 1" you will need a reducer to 3/4".
     
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