Washing machine drain pan plumbing and washer hoses/drain pipe.

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1lilmornstr

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Hello!
I am doing some remodeling on my house. In the laundry room I am installing and in wall box for the washing machine hot/cold/drain pipes and a washing machine drain pan.
The house is all on one floor with a raised foundation. There is a dirt crawl space underneath the whole house. We are on a septic tank but have "town water" not a well.

First question is for the washing machine drain pan. Obviously it will only have water in it if there is a leak or overflow from the washer or when the filter gets plugged and has to be cleaned out. I need to know how to install the drain pan plumbing. I wouldn't connect it to the house plumbing because if I did there would be issues with backflow or septic gases because there wouldn't be water in the trap right? So then do I just do a gravity drain and have a stub exit the side of my house like the hot water heater emergency drain has?

Second question is regarding installing a box to contain the washer hot and cold water pipes and the drain pipe. I'm including pictures of what it looks like now and also the box I want to install. I want to get this done for two reasons - aesthetics and energy conservation! So my question is regarding the hot and cold water pipes. Do I have to "copper sweat" them like it shows or could I use those "shark bite" connectors? If I have to do this their way, how hard is it, and what do I need to do it? I haven't welded(?) before so I would need whatever equipment is required probably.
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breplum

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Drain pans exit to the exterior, just like WH drain pan. No traps. A cotton ball in the exit opening will help reduce air infiltration.
WM drain pans are a PITA when pushing in or pulling out equipment and hardly are valuable IMHO. They will never help a hose burst situation and washing machines rarely leak. A good water proof sheet vinyl or eq. is all you need. IMHO
In CA, washing machine setups are required to have water hammer arrestors (they can be aftermarket or built in to the WM outlet box), unless house is piped in PEX which absorbs water hammer from solenoid valves, addressing the issue.
I recommend having a plumber do the new box or just caulk what you have and call it a day.
If you have a plumber do it, you can save money by opening the sheetrock and taking pics so the plumber can give you a price w/o a extra visit.
 

John Gayewski

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Those are threaded or copper sweat. You can thread a PEX adapter straight onto the water inlets.

If you are not in an area that freezes then I would just pipe it down through the floor or not install the pan to begin with.

How exactly does this save energy? I'm not quite following that part.
 

Hightechburrito

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No input on your question, but it looks like whatever is plugged into the bottom of the electrical receptacle isn't fully inserted..
 
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