Very long water line...

[Valveman]

I tried to stay away from the trees as best as I could. I couldn't believe the oak tree roots had just completely encased the fittings like a sock. One was more than 100' from a tree in any direction. I hope the salt trick works.

You don't have a pump so you don't need a CSV. And the city is only giving you 80 PSI, which then has to go uphill and a long ways. So I would not install a regulator of any kind. If they don't have a backflow preventer at the meter, then you will not have to worry about thermal expansion from the water heater. But if you have a check valve or back flow preventer, you will need a small thermal expansion tank, and I would also add a pressure relief valve.

Be sure and mark where any underground connections are, as it is hard to find them after they start leaking.

 

[Greenmonster123]

I'm not sure thermal expansion should be much of an issue in GA. I don't imagine it freezes much.

You only need one ball valve at the front and one at the back.

I could be wrong but it seems to me that in a place like Georgia where the burial depth of water mains is in the 1-2 foot range could see far greater temperature swings. In the north where pipes are buried 4' or better the temp is pretty consistent at that depth. In the south the surface temps could go from 100+ to 30, the pipe may not freeze but being 12" down it will see more of those surface temps.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Water Monster]

Incoming pressure is 80 lbs...can you tell what is best way to split 2" PVC pipe at end of run? If we terminate at valve box in front of property then reduce and split to 1" or 3/4" PEX pipe or equivalent with 3 or 4 distribution points. Any pre-made adapters for this?

 

[Reach4]

If we terminate at valve box in front of property then reduce and split to 1" or 3/4" PEX pipe or equivalent with 3 or 4 distribution points.

Are you asking about running four 1 or 3/4 inch pipes each 2500 ft? It seems improbable that that is what you meant. What did you mean?

 

[Water Monster]

No, sorry...I'm running 2500' from highway up and along a dirt road to my property which is 1 square acre. We will have 4 RV sites on the property which we will terminate with frost proof hydrants. So 2500' of 2" PVC then split and reduce to 4 smaller runs at 100', 150', 200' and 225'.

 

[Reach4]

So 2500' of 2" PVC then split and reduce to 4 smaller runs at 100', 150', 200' and 225'.

Yes, that will be good. I don't know what would be better a than splitting up the lines with reducing tees. It would be nice to have separate shutoffs for each.

Do find out what the frost line is in your county.

 

[Greenmonster123]

Tee off to each location with one of these

 

[Water Monster]

Frost line is 5 - 18" here.

How do I get from 2" PVC to this tee? Reducer? Splitter?

 

[Water Monster]

Does it matter which direction I go in with 2" pipe? Attach bell end to meter or other end to start?

 

[Water Monster]

I'd like to thank everyone for help with this and comments. We have been using another solution as this is more of a hunting camp but need to get back to it. I can restate the problem with some new variables.

1" municipal tap at street with approximately 80 psi and 1500' to property. Will terminate here and then split to two yard hydrants. I'm convinced that 2" line is too much for this and thinking 1.5" tubing to entrance of property then tee off to two hydrants both approximately 200' away with 1" tubing.

It's doubtful that both hydrants will be used at the same time. Any additional advice or comments would be appreciated as I have to do this myself.

 

[Valveman]

How much elevation change in the 1500' of distance?

 

[Water Monster]

Hi Valveman...it is uphill for 1000' and then mostly flat.

 

[Reach4]

Hi Valveman...it is uphill for 1000' and then mostly flat.

He was asking about the change in altitude between the endpoints.

 

[Valveman]

Yeah in that 1000' run how many vertical feet is that.

 

[Water Monster]

Yes...I understand but don't know how to accurately measure it. It could be 20-30'.

 

[Reach4]

Yes...I understand but don't know how to accurately measure it. It could be 20-30'.

While gps altitude measurements are not as accurate as horizontal measurements, they can be useful. Average the numbers at both ends

 

[Valveman]

With just two faucets the 1.5" pipe is large enough. Even if it is 50' elevation you would only loose about 20 PSI. So, you would still get 60 PSI from the 80 the city is supplying.

 

[Water Monster]

Thank you, Valveman. That's what I wanted to here. Two more questions, please...

1. How difficult is it to roll out that 1.5" pipe? I understand it can get tangled and make a mess.

2. What are best fitting to use? I saw a video last night for Ford couplers and pack joints.

Thank you very much for your help. I'm trying to decide if I can get this done myself without spending a ton of money.

 

[Fitter30]

There is so much more than laying pipe in a ditch and covering it up with dirt. First is a qualified operator that can dig a ditch not to deep but deep enough to cover with the correct rock depth. If its over dug more rock needed. Any pipe has expansion and contraction has to be addressed. Less joints less possible leaks. Don't forget a burried trace wire so someone can find it 20 years from now.

 

[Valveman]

Poly pipe will expand or contract 1" for every 100' with every 10 degree in temperature change. I have a 7,200 foot long line that gets 11' longer or shorter as the seasons change. Don't make it a straight line. Snake it back and forth a time or two to give it some flexibility. I am replacing all of my locking compression couplers and butt fusing the joints together. The grass and tree roots get into the compression couplings and expand until they turn the o-ring square and they start to leak. Poly is pretty forgiving if you leave a little slack.