Urgent help needed with leaking coupling on main stack

[lhgrappler]

TLDR: Plumbers messed up, main stack has a poorly placed coupling half way into the cement floor that is leaking. We need to fix it asap, BUT I have no idea how to break away the cement in such a small area next to a mortared shower pan.

We have had so many issues with these plumbers. We are have drywall go up on the completely gutted and remodeled house Monday. Yesterday I saw some suspicious water on the floor in the basement where the main stack goes into the concrete. I decided to send dyed water down through waste plumbing to see if it was leaking, or just water coming up from underneath. Sure enough, we saw the dyed water coming out. There was no reason for them to even be messing with the stack that low, my husband thinks maybe they put to much strain on it and broke it. They definitely did not chip away enough concrete to properly repair it that low.

This was absolutely heartbreaking, we've been living in a camper for 2 years during this reno and I can NOT delay drywall again, I will end up in the loony bin.

The plumber is not answering our text or calls (we texted him pictures of the dye test that showed the leak)

I want to just do it so its done right. BUT there is no space what so ever right there. I would GREATLY appreciate and ideas on how to do this without ripping out the mortared shower pan right nest to it. If I have to cut away some of the stud next to it, that might be ok, but there is a supply line going through it, so I can't just remove the whole thing.

Excuse the mess in the pictures.
Yellow stuff is foam used for leveling the floor, white thing is mortared in place shower pan, the pipe is wrapped in mass loaded vinyl.

 

[wwhitney]

Looks like the coupling is fully above the slab? Are there signs of cracks in the coupling itself? Can you tell if it's leaking from the bottom of the coupling or higher up? Seems like the first step is to cut out a section of pipe above the coupling, enough to give you clearance to work. Then you can inspect the interior of the coupling.

If the leak is from the top side of the coupling, and the coupling and pipe coming up are both OK, then you can use a "fitting saver" type tool to ream the pipe out of the top half of the coupling and install new pipe plus two banded rubber couplings. This seems unlikely to be the case, though.

If the leak is lower or the coupling is damaged, but there's at least 1" of sound pipe sticking up above the slab into the coupling, then you could use a "pipe saver" type tool that can shave the coupling away without damaging the pipe. Those exist but are much harder to find; one quick google search failed to come up with a reference, but I'm sure they exist. Or you might be able to cut the coupling in half at mid-height and then carefully peel away the bottom half of the coupling from the pipe (e.g. if the problem is inadequate cement in the lower half of the coupling, as that would work in your favor for removal).

Otherwise, you'll have to chip out concrete. Should be possible, looks like you have access so you don't have to work from the side with the shower pan.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

We have had so many issues with these plumbers. We are have drywall go up on the completely gutted and remodeled house Monday. Yesterday I saw some suspicious water on the floor in the basement where the main stack goes into the concrete. I decided to send dyed water down through waste plumbing to see if it was leaking, or just water coming up from underneath. Sure enough, we saw the dyed water coming out.

Nice test.

Can you tell at what level the water comes out? Could the leak be higher, and traveling down under that pipe covering?

If you attach toilet paper around the upper half of the coupling, does that TP get wet?

 

[lhgrappler]

Nice test.

Can you tell at what level the water comes out? Could the leak be higher, and traveling down under that pipe covering?

If you attach toilet paper around the upper half of the coupling, does that TP get wet?

It is visibly squirting out the bottom of the coupling, we had one person upstairs pouring the water in while the other was downstairs watching. There is no moisture any where above the bottom of the coupling. - here 's a pic from when we did the dye test:

 

[Reach4]

I am not a pro. I cannot envision a cure that will not involve breaking into the concrete.

 

[lhgrappler]

I am not a pro. I cannot envision a cure that will not involve breaking into the concrete.

We plan on having to break concrete... the question is how in such a tight space. We *really* don't want to have to rip out the mortared shower pan.

 

[Reach4]

I am not sure if I would be thinking lawyer, or repair. If repair, support the pipe above. Use a riser clamp and carpentry.

Then I would think you would cut the pipe, and see what you can see. I am picturing you being able to tell which way the pipe is turning. If it is not headed toward the shower pan, then things might work well for you not having to rip up the shower pan.

Transitions from vertical to horizontal should be long sweeps, wyes, 45s, or combos.

I have only used an electric jackhammer to break concrete. I had a pointed bit, which I think got stuff started. Then a chisel tip bit once things were going.

 

[GReynolds929]

Is all the piping PVC? I can't see what's under the pipe wrap. If not then the difent materials can't be solvent welded. Is the coupling new or was it existing?

 

[lhgrappler]

Is all the piping PVC? I can't see what's under the pipe wrap. If not then the difent materials can't be solvent welded. Is the coupling new or was it existing?

It's all pvc, just wrapped in mass loaded vinyl and pipe wrap to help with noise.

The coupling is something the plumbers did. We suspect they strained the pipe too much when they were working higher up and broke it at the base.