Upgrading shower stems from compression to quarter-turns

[phillerk]

Hello! I would REALLY like to swap out the compression stems in the master shower with quarter-turn stems. Both hot and cold stems (Union Gopher 7E-1C by Danco) require fresh washers at least yearly; and sometimes the stems turn with the faucet handles rather than stay put; and I've replaced both stems more than once and even had to hand-grind the stem seats on more than one occasion--and I’ve lived here only six years! Tired of the hassle, so I am thinking that stems with quarter-turn valves or ceramic discs might solve my problems. Is there a trick to this? Or would this simply be a matter of pulling out each 7E-1C stem and replacing it with a quarter-turn type stem (rather than yet another 7E-1C) without having to change anything at all about the pipes/plumbing? Or would I at least have to replace the stem seat at the same time?
.
I've only ever seen discussions about quarter-turn valves used at shutoff points (e.g., under sinks, next to toilets, at clothes washer hookup, etc.), but I hadn't seen anything yet about using quarter-turn stems to replace compression stems behind shower faucet handles.
.
I did see in another thread where HJ mentioned that he never replaces stems like these but converts them to "a 'lifetime' seal system." Unfortunately, he did not elaborate.

 

[hj]

Unless the manufacturer makes the ceramic stems to replace the compression ones it cannot be done. And, it is usually NOT just a matter of removing the old ones and screwing the new ones in.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[phillerk]

Unless the manufacturer makes the ceramic stems to replace the compression ones it cannot be done. And, it is usually NOT just a matter of removing the old ones and screwing the new ones in.

Thanks, HJ. Not surprising! FWIW, I am anticipating new faucet handles to accommodate whatever stems/cartridges I employ here, so I am a bit confused regarding any necessity to stick with original manufacturer compatibility.
.
On a related note, when I have installed replacements in the past (the 7E-1C compression stems), is it recommended that such stems be in the "open" position or the "closed" position as I tighten them into place with a wrench? I don't think I have paid attention to this before. Perhaps my ignorance on this one aspect has contributed to some of my problem with regards to the stems' loosening up as we subsequently turn the faucet handles.

 

[Jadnashua]

A ceramic valve upgrade needs to replace both the valve stem and the seat...that isn't always possible, and rarely as aftermarket upgrades.

 

[NatashaPoidevin04]

very informative post.. I am actually having a hard time with shower so I'm planning to buy a new one then renovate my bathroom as well...

 

[hj]

If the valve is NOT in the "open" position, one of two things can happern;
1. The stem will contact the seat before it can tighten into the faucet body and thus it will leak, OR,
2. It will contact the seat and when you tighten it into the faucet body it will shatter the web the seat is screwed into. Then there is no "repair" other than to replace the whole faucet.