Toto Drake toilet product review

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by Reader Review, Jan 27, 2006.

  1. po1973

    po1973 New Member

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    Mar 24, 2008
    Location:
    MN
    Best Yet.

    I installed a Drake 9 years ago in my 2nd floor master. Have not had one...not ONE time had to use a plunger on that unit. It gets worked over pretty well. I was so impressed with this unit that I installed 2 additional Toto's in my house and over the course of 9, 8 and 7 years, have had to use plunger ONE time in a basement unit that the kids tore up with lots of paper. This is coming from someone who would routinely require plunger work (daily). Couldn't be happier with the investment.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 20, 2017
  2. Van Nuys Plumber

    Van Nuys Plumber New Member

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    Feb 6, 2013
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    Los Angeles, California
    Great shot.. We're plumbers for God's sake. People often don't understand how important we are to their everyday life. What would they do if they had to wake up to this every morning?
     
  3. Reader Review

    Reader Review Comments by readers

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    Jan 2, 2006
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    Emails and phone calls sent in by readers
    CST744E TOTO Drake

    Dear Terry,

    I left a message on your machine to order another low-flow toilet. I'd love to have another one we purchased from you Sept 3, 2010.

    This info:
    #CST744E-01 Toto Eco Drake 1/28 GPM E-Max flush. HET WaterSense consisting of ST743E tank and C744E bowl, elongated, Cotton White.

    #SS114-01 TOTO Soft Close seat, elongated, Cotton White

    Install Kit, too, please.
    Joy T
    Kirkland WA
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2013
  4. Reader Review

    Reader Review Comments by readers

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2006
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    Emails and phone calls sent in by readers
    TOTO CST744E Drake

    Terry,

    Thanks again! James is a very personable and professional fixture setting plumber. Judy is thrilled with her "Lexus" toilet and it's wonderful for her to not have to worry about something so basic.

    I'll definitely be calling on you in the future!

    Sincerely,

    John K
    Clyde Hill, WA

    PS: I verified with Jamie yesterday that Shannon is your brother - don't know if he remembers me, but we were in the same graduating class at BHS.
     
  5. Gehuali

    Gehuali New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2014
    Location:
    Missouri
    Just bought the Toto Drake CST744SL (1.6Gpf) advertised as having commercial grade flushing performance. I get confused between "commercial grade" and "pressure assisted" toilets and thought maybe the CST744SL was pressure assisted. After seeing the mechanism, looks like it is gravity fed rather than pressure assisted valve, G-Max, etc. Is that correct?
    Question is, do I need to look for a pressure assist model for the higher reliability, and does Toto make one? Or is this G-Max model with 3" flush valve going to take care of just about any load?
     
  6. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

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    Nov 8, 2005
    Occupation:
    Consumer
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    Hansville, Washington
    I had a PA unit, replaced it with a 1.6 gal Drake about 4 years ago, and have never regretted it.
     
  7. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

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    Apr 27, 2012
    Location:
    New York, NY
    That GMax is going to take care of any reasonable load. It has a MAP rating of >1000grams, meaning it pins the needle on the scale of flushability. We have two of them, and love them. Commercial grade means that Terry actually installs these in public restrooms in places like bars, restaurants, churches, etc.. If you look above, you'll see where he put some in a church. You're going to love it, and a lot quieter than a pressure assist (and it won't explode, either).
     
  8. Gehuali

    Gehuali New Member

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    Jan 14, 2014
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    Missouri
    Your prompt advice is greatly appreciated.
     
  9. Lego

    Lego New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Location:
    Alberta
    With the glowing recommendations of the Eco Drake I bought one in 2007 (Elongated & ADA) - good for my big 6'4" frame. I noted that with the tank cover on, it comes in at more than 30" tall, which makes it unsuitable for bathroom fitments in which a counter banjo / extension is used. I can't find the tank and base model number because Toto uses a water-solueable ink when they stamp on the inside of the tank, which due to condensation inside has all but erased it.

    Does Toto make a similarly sized tank that's slightly wider but slightly shorter to fit under a 30" tall countertop? I'd like to buy 2 more for our new (to us) house.

    Thank you in advance!
     
  10. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Location:
    New York, NY
    No problem regarding the model numbers. The original Drake elongated 1.28gpf toilet is CST744E. At ADA height, its CST744EL.

    There is an optional traditional-looking new tank for the original Drake (ST744E is the new tank number, ST743E is the original tank number) that makes the toilet a CST744EN or ELN, depending on whether it is ADA or not. (The "N" is for "new tank", the "L" is for ADA height.)

    With the new tank on the C744EL bowl (the ADA bowl), the thing is 31-1/8" high, actually a little taller than the 30.5" that your CST744EL is. So that doesn't help.

    That ADA bowl increases the height of the overall toilet by 2 inches. The CST744E (without the ADA bowl) is only 28.5" high. My concern is whether you're going to have enough room to service the thing if it needs it, i.e. replace a fill valve or a flapper. It would suck to have to pull the bowl off the floor and slide the whole thing out to get in there to change a flapper. And you may want to keep the ADA height.

    So...some other options: The Drake II (CST454CEFG) is 30" high with a Univeral Height bowl (just a nudge under the ADA height). That might fit, but you would still have the issue of servicing it.
    The Ultramax II one-piece is an outstanding toilet that is only 28-3/4" at the top of the tank. Universal height. Sanagloss. Double-cyclone flush. MS604114CEFG.

    There is also a "lowboy" version of the Ultramax II called the Supreme II. Its lower tank might degrade the flush a smidge, but it will fit well and be easily serviceable at 25-9/16" high. MS634114CEFG and it's still Universal Height at the bowl.

    One of Toto's best toilets, the Soiree one-piece, is 27-3/4", so you would have a little more room to get in there if you need it, but not as much as on the Supreme. MS964214CEFG. also Universal height.

    When you go shopping, the MS (one-piece) ones come with a seat, while the CST (bowl and tank, 2 piece) ones don't. Remember that prices vary wildly at plumbing supply places, with 20-40% off list not unheard of when you are ready to buy. Terry's prices in the red box above are a good guide to a fair price.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2014
  11. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    If you put a tank under a counter, you are going to prevent essential access, unless that counter is liftable.
     
  12. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    Aug 17, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    The Eco Drake would have a ST743E tank.

    Eco Drake, CST744EL, 30-1/2" high
    Drake II, CST454CEFG, 30" high
    Ultramax II, MS604114CEFG, 28-3/4" high
    Supreme ADA, MS864114L, 25-1/2" high
     
  13. Lego

    Lego New Member

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    Nov 29, 2007
    Location:
    Alberta
    wjcandee & Terry, thanks. I've narrowed down my choices to an Ultramax II. Seems to have good ratings - I was able to get a local quote down to $445 CDN for it.

    Terry, next time we pass through Bothell I'll be sure to drop by and say hi. :)
     
  14. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

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    Apr 27, 2012
    Location:
    New York, NY
    You got a great deal and you will love the toilet. We have the skirted version, called the Carlyle II. Essentially the same toilet only skirted (needed to do that b/c of non-standard rough-in distance; the Carlyle II will fit on a 10", 12" or 14" rough-in, whereas the Ultramax II will fit on the overwhelmingly-standard 12"). Anyway, it's a great unit to look at and a great unit to use. Come on back with your comments once you have it installed.
     
  15. Rocky03

    Rocky03 New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2014
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    Just installed the Toto Eco Drake CST744E (1.28Gpf) toilet for our master bedroom. Works great as advertised. We had two toilets replaced in our house this week. I also go the Kohler Santa Rosa 1.28Gpf ADA and installed in the same week.

    Between the two, we like the Eco Drake NON-ada toilet much better. Not sure why people are raving reviews about the ADA toilets. Unless you're 6ft or taller, then an ADA toilet is for your. I'm 5.10 and I find my feet just touches the floor. My wife is shorter and prefers the lower height toilets.

    However, I like the flushing mechanism in the newer Kohler canister flushing system. The flushing lever is much more easier to press and it comes back down without the "thud" noise. Not sure how reliable this system is in the long run though.

    The Eco Drake is your traditional flapper type. It takes a little bit more effort vs the Kohler as you are actually lifting the flapper valve with the weight of the water pressure from the tank (like we've been doing for ages). The Kohler one, it's really easy to activate the lift of the canister inside the tank (kids will like that).

    As for flushing performance, the Drake appears to flush better than the Kohler but not by much. The Kohler does a pretty good job too.

    If I had to rate between the two (10 being the better of the two) ...

    Flush performance:
    Drake: 10
    Kohler: 8.5

    Flush noise (the Drake exhibits a "thud" noise when the flapper comes back down after you press the lever)
    Drake: 10
    Kohler: 8.5

    Flush lever effort:
    Kohler: 10
    Drake: 7

    We have one more room to do and we'll probably go for the Kohler Santa Rosa 1.6Gpf since this is the only non-ADA toilet they sell. We'll sacrifice the flushing power over the ease of flushing lever.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2014
  16. Wallijonn

    Wallijonn Member

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    Jun 7, 2013
    Occupation:
    computer technician
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    Arizona
    I thought the same thing, that since water was dripping from the right bolt thread that that was where the leak was. When I looked at the tank to bowl gasket, on the back, I could see water puddled between the tank and bowl porcelain. The Korky tank to bowl gasket kit, #481BP fixed that. The 481BP gasket is red instead of black, is firmer and slightly thicker. I was not able to tighten down the tank bolts to where the tank made contact at all three points. There is now a small gap at all three points. I just tightened the tank bolts until the tank no longer rocked back and forth, to where it felt solid and substantial.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2014
  17. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    Location:
    New England
    The most common source of tank leaking with a new toilet is incorrect assembly of the parts. If you have a metal washer inside the tank under the head of the bolt, it is very likely to leak. The correct assembly here is very important, and an extra 10-seconds of attention can make a huge difference. First, before inserting the bolt, take some fine sandpaper and smooth down the porcelain around the hole...only takes a few swipes back and forth. THen, with a new washer under the head, drop it down the hole. Take a washer and nut and then tighten the bolt to the tank. This will make a waterproof seal, independent of how tight you get the tank to the bowl. THen, place the tank on the bowl with the spud washer around the tank's outlet (some of them have a notch in them...make sure it is fully seated properly), and with a second set of washers and nuts, attach the tank to the bowl. If you only use one set of nuts and washers, you do not have any primary seal. If you put a washer underneath the head of the bolt, it will almost always leak, maybe not immediately, but eventually.
     
  18. Wallijonn

    Wallijonn Member

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    Jun 7, 2013
    Occupation:
    computer technician
    Location:
    Arizona
    Check. The bolt head is usually wide enough that a metal washer isn't needed.

    Huh? I thought you just said not to use a washer under the bolt head? Oh, you mean the "rubber washer". Check. I call that a "gasket". :D

    The "spud washer" is the big rubber/foam washer. Got it.

    When I install the other Drake I might see if the tip for coating the spud washer with Plumber's 100% Pure Silicone will prevent a leak. That time around I will have a Channel Lock wrench at the ready to make sure the plastic flange nut is tight. I just can't see why the factory wouldn't use a torque wrench tool to accurately tighten the flange nut each and every time. Or I might just go ahead and replace the spud washer with the one in the #481BP kit from the "get-go".
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  19. Wallijonn

    Wallijonn Member

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    computer technician
    Location:
    Arizona
    Hope you never get arthritis in the knees. Or when you get older you don't need a walker, or cane, to get around. Or a bad back. If you had any of those you would probably appreciate an ADA height toilet more.

    Since your feet just touch the floor, try a plastic toilet seat since they typically run about 1/2" thick instead of the 1" of wood.
     
  20. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2005
    Occupation:
    Consumer
    Location:
    Hansville, Washington
    There's also an issue with the water level; it's lower (from the seat) than in the "normal" toilets. This is very noticeable for some of us, particularly when half awake, sitting down in the middle of the night.
     
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