Toilet still leaking after replacing flush valve and water line

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by diyalabama, Oct 30, 2017.

  1. diyalabama

    diyalabama New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2017
    Location:
    Alabama
    Hi all. I had a leak around where the water line goes into the bottom of my toilet (regular 'ol toilet..nothing fancy or different). I replaced the water line and also replaced the flush valve (twice). The first time I replaced the flush valve, I was still getting a leak around the connection up around the bottom of the water tank, so I replaced again. I am still getting a few drops that are leaking around the connection and trying to figure out what the heck is wrong. I have tightened by hand as the directions say not to 'overtighten" or you can crack the tank. I am female and not the strongest cat in the fight, so I had my husband turn by hand as well and we are still getting a leak. Any thoughts on this besides calling a plumber?
     
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    The thing the water supply hooks to is called the fill valve. The flush valve is the thing that usually has a flapper on it.

    I suspect the leaking continues when the tank is full and you turn off the supply valve. In that case, the leaking would be at the gasket at the base of the fill valve. If you tighten the nut down there by hand, you are not going to crack the tank. You might strip the threads on the plastic fill valve however. I would start by tightening more with your fingers. If you did strip that thread, it would not be terrible if you can get your hands on another fill valve readily.

    If tightening more by hand does not do it, there may be a flaw at the hole in the tank on the surface where the gasket/shank washer sits. You can remove your fill valve again, and feel around. Sand down any imperfection in the surface. Then apply some plumber's grease to both sides of the washer/gasket, before tightening again.

    I am not a plumber. [​IMG]
     
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  4. diyalabama

    diyalabama New Member

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    Oct 30, 2017
    Location:
    Alabama
    Thank you for that. Yes, the leaking is occurring while the tank is full and the water is turned on. Since water runs downhill, at first, I thought I had leaking around the water line where it comes out of the wall...but after further inspection, it is indeed leaking around the threaded shank/lock nut.
     
  5. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Normally with a new fill valve, supplied with a new rubber shank washer there, you would be fine. I check for roughness on the inside of the tank to make sure that there are no rough spots there.
    The new supply line will come with seals on both ends, so no tape is needed there. Sometimes tape will be the cause of a leak.
     
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  6. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Try checking with the supply valve off for a good while.

    The point of that is that if the leak is past the shank washer, the leak will continue with water from the tank. If the leak is from where the supply line hooks to the threaded shank, the leaking will stop.
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2017
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  7. diyalabama

    diyalabama New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2017
    Location:
    Alabama
    Reach4 - I installed the 2nd fill valve Saturday morning and it didn't appear to be leaking at all so I just left the water on all day. I found the small amount of leakage yesterday evening so I turned the water off. Today I am seeing the leakage.
     
  8. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    You could try more hand tightening. If that does not do it, you can reinstall the valve you have now, I think. Just dress up and grease the surface before reinstalling.

    I would pre-shop for plumber's grease and aluminum oxide sandpaper. 220 grit might be good if you got a single grit, but a kit that included rougher stuff to start would be good too. I might go for something that could later also be used for potable water seals.

    https://www.danco.com/product/12-oz-waterproof-grease/ meets NSF 61 (water)
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Danco-Grease/1075455
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-1-2-oz-Waterproof-Grease-80360/203193502

    silicone 0.5 oz
    https://www.danco.com/product/0-5-oz-silicone-faucet-grease/ Danco 88693

    https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...80-c-8191.htm?tid=-3839058263547438005&ipos=1

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-9-in...ide-Sand-Paper-5-Sheets-Pack-9005NA/203783586
     
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  9. hj

    hj Master Plumber

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    "hand tight" is NEVER enough to seal a flush valve OR a fill valve. Use pliers and tighten them securely. You will NOT crack the tank. (at least I never have, and I tighten them VERY securely.)
     
  10. plumber69

    plumber69 In the Trades

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2014
    Location:
    Prince Rupert, British Columbia
    Make sure you have the rubber the right way. The shank washer in the diagram. Beveled part downwards
     
  11. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    You might want to elaborate on that. I figured those were flat. So any way, you are saying the smaller diameter down?

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2017
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