Toilet supply line with integrated shutoff valve - can this be purchased or alternatives

Users who are viewing this thread

I am sweating here

New Member
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Toronto
I need to replace an existing toilet supply line as I am going to replace the fill valve. It currently is attached to a multiturn metal handle shut off and that could not be closed with the hand. I have not yet resorted to using 2 wrenches to close it. I last used this valve maybe 10 years ago.

I vaguely remember a few years ago seen a toilet supply line at my local orange big-box store that had an integrated 1/4 turn shut off. I can't seem to find it currently

the reason for this request to find this valve is that I'm wondering if I'd be better off using 1/4 turn which I like far more, and I don't want to mess with the old one. The old one is not leaking and has never done so.

can this toilet supply line still be purchased ( quality brand) or is my memory muddy on this? where is it available?

If it doesn't exist, i'll probably just shut off the main valve Supply to the house which has a nice one quarter turn! But alternative suggestions are definitely appreciated

thanks
 
Last edited:

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
40,519
Reaction score
4,798
Points
113
Location
IL
It is usually best to not use an integrated valve and supply line. A 3/8 compression output connects readily to supply lines that go to the toilet.

Replacing the existing hard-to-operate valve is a good idea.
do you know what you are connecting to? The OD of the pipe into the valve can give a clue. Popular ODs would be 0.625, 0.675, and 0.840 inches.

A photo of where the valve connects could help identify what you are dealing with.
 

I am sweating here

New Member
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Toronto
It is usually best to not use an integrated valve and supply line. A 3/8 compression output connects readily to supply lines that go to the toilet.

Replacing the existing hard-to-operate valve is a good idea.
do you know what you are connecting to? The OD of the pipe into the valve can give a clue. Popular ODs would be 0.625, 0.675, and 0.840 inches.

A photo of where the valve connects could help identify what you are dealing with.
why is it bad to use an integrated valve?

all the fittings in this house are soldered except for one compression set at a sink I installed 15 years ago. it is an 70 yr old house with thicker copper. in the past I would have soldered myself, as I have done that many times before at my place, but now have some physical limitations now stopping me from doing so. hence the reason why I was thinking about integrated shutoff in the first place. as far as size, I've never had an issue with that. is definitely not 3/4". only my supply to the house has that.

although not best practice, why is it bad to leave a hard to operate valve in place and not touch it? I still have my main shut off. point being is that replacing a toilet fill valve is something I can still handle, for soldering I would have to call someone.

**correction, metal handle**
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7997.JPG
    IMG_7997.JPG
    46.6 KB · Views: 42

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
40,519
Reaction score
4,798
Points
113
Location
IL
If you have 1/2 inch copper, I would consider a SharkBite https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...arter-Turn-Angle-Stop-Valve-UR23036/325997124

Or compression, but that takes a lot of force or longer wrenches. If you do use compression, lube the ferrule and threads.

I am not a pro. I have not seen anybody suggest the combos valve and supply. However if you like that, how about https://www.sharkbite.com/us/en/bra...teel-braided-faucet-connector-with-stop-valve


although not best practice, why is it bad to leave a hard to operate valve in place and not touch it? I still have my main shut off. point being is that replacing a toilet fill valve is something I can still handle, for soldering I would have to call someone.

I guess it is because people know where to look for the local shutoff or it could be accessed quicker in the case of a pending overflow.

Overflows are a lot less common than they used to be.
 

oldVermonter

Member
Messages
66
Reaction score
17
Points
8
Location
Vermont
I too recommend Sharkbite. I've used both products Reach4 mentions, and had good results in every case. Just make sure:

1. You have a really clean, square end on your copper supply line;
2. Clean it up carefully to remove any burrs;
3. Be sure to insert the pipe the full depth required.

For 2 and 3, this tool works well, and is easy to use:

 

I am sweating here

New Member
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Toronto
If you have 1/2 inch copper, I would consider a SharkBite https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...arter-Turn-Angle-Stop-Valve-UR23036/325997124

Or compression, but that takes a lot of force or longer wrenches. If you do use compression, lube the ferrule and threads.

I am not a pro. I have not seen anybody suggest the combos valve and supply. However if you like that, how about https://www.sharkbite.com/us/en/bra...teel-braided-faucet-connector-with-stop-valve




I guess it is because people know where to look for the local shutoff or it could be accessed quicker in the case of a pending overflow.

Overflows are a lot less common than they used to be.
I too recommend Sharkbite. I've used both products Reach4 mentions, and had good results in every case. Just make sure:

1. You have a really clean, square end on your copper supply line;
2. Clean it up carefully to remove any burrs;
3. Be sure to insert the pipe the full depth required.

For 2 and 3, this tool works well, and is easy to use:


Those solutions involve removing the old shut off. If I do that doesn't just make sense to get a shark bite with the separate supply lines and valve?

I was trying to even avoid cutting the pipe if I can. So the supply pipe with the integrated shut off is not recommended?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
40,519
Reaction score
4,798
Points
113
Location
IL
Those solutions involve removing the old shut off. If I do that doesn't just make sense to get a shark bite with the separate supply lines and valve?

I was trying to even avoid cutting the pipe if I can. So the supply pipe with the integrated shut off is not recommended?
Is the old one soldered on? You did not want to solder.

Is the old one compression? You often can leave the nut and ferrule in place, and replace the body of the valve. That could work, but you also want a solution that lets you replace that escutcheon.

Not sure what you have? How about a photo that is a closeup of where the pipe meets the valve.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
40,519
Reaction score
4,798
Points
113
Location
IL
So if you don't want to unsolder, wipe, and solder on a new valve, that would leave you with cutting the pipe. Fortunately it looks like you have a lot of pipe to work with.

If you want to solder it, there are some good solder valves too. https://dahlvalve.com/product/supply-stops-611-13-32/ for example.

If using a flex line, I think it is better to not aim the faucet output in line with the toilet connector, but instead imagine the path resulting in more gentle bends.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks